THE JOURNAL
Belcanto, Lisbon. Photograph by Mr Paulo Barata, courtesy of Belcanto
An expert guide to the best restaurants across the globe.
These days, everyone is a food critic. Whether diners are Tweeting complaints or writing online reviews, there’s a platform for anyone with a wireless connection and an opinion. This makes it difficult to know who to trust: take the recent case of TripAdvisor’s highest rated restaurant, which turned out to be a garden shed. Conversely, while the Michelin Guide is a marker of quality, it represents a somewhat narrow view that’s at odds with today’s diverse, fast-paced food scene. Where Chefs Eat: A Guide to Chefs’ Favorite Restaurants, released by Phaidon today, is a strong alternative. In this global guide to local haunts, which was first published in 2013 (this is the third, most up-to-date iteration), the world’s best chefs offer thousands of restaurant recommendations. Categories span breakfast, late night, and places they wished they had opened, from hole-in-the-wall dumpling shacks to fine-dining destinations. Here, we picked out seven of the most popular recommendations across the globe.
LONDON
Curried crab with egg and soy at Kiln, London. Photograph by Mr Jordan Lee, courtesy of Kiln
KILN
This tiny Soho restaurant comes recommended by 11 chefs. Some are its neighbours, such as Mr Jeremy Lee (Quo Vadis) and Ms Nieves Barragán Mohacho (of Barrafina fame, now heading up Sabor), while others have travelled from further afield to try the heady, fiery Thai food served there – like Mr Tom Cunanan, head chef at Washington DC’s Bad Saint. The food at Kiln speaks of an obsessive approach to recreating lesser-known regional Thai dishes, some influenced by Yunnan and Burma, others from the Yaowarat Road, Bangkok’s Chinatown. Traditional tao burners flame beneath the woks in the open kitchen.
58 Brewer St, London, W1F 9TL
**Find out more here **
NEW YORK CITY
Le Coucou, NYC. Photograph by Ms Ditte Isager, courtesy of Le Coucou
LE COUCOU
Since it opened in 2016 at 11 Howard hotel, Le Coucou has brought opulent French fine dining back to Manhattan. The vast, glitzy space, opened by restaurateur Mr Stephen Starr, is endorsed by six chefs, including Mr Phillip Foss of Chicago’s cutting-edge EL ideas, and Joshua McFadden of Portland’s Ava Gene’s, who describes it as, “the best new restaurant in America, period”. Head chef Mr Daniel Rose is reinvigorating classic French cooking, favouring traditional, regional recipes.
138 Lafayette Street, New York City, 10013
**Find out more here **
PARIS
Roasted saddle of hare, confit grey shallot and caramelised quince at Astrance, Paris. Photograph courtesy of Astrance
L’ASTRANCE
Twelve chefs praise this three Michelin-starred restaurant, a small spot tucked away in Paris’ 16th arrondissement. The menu created by chef Mr Pascal Barbot is at the forefront of modern French cuisine with a focus on root vegetables and herbs, many of which are pickled, fermented or smoked. “It’s an example to all the other restaurants in Paris,” says Mr Simone Tondo, head chef at neo-bistro Tondo in Paris. “One of the most humble and talented chefs in the world, and one of the best service teams.”
4 Rue Beethoven, Paris 75016 ** _astancerestaurant.com**_
SYDNEY
Pretzel and whipped bottarga. Photograph courtesy of 10 William St
10 WILLIAM STREET
“On a Monday night, it’s the hospitality hang-out,” says Ms Danielle Alvarez, head chef at Fred’s in Sydney, who was among five chefs to name 10 William St as their favourite neighbourhood restaurant. Part wine bar, part tapas joint, it serves delicious, unfussy Italian small plates, and is always packed by 8pm. Local chefs Mr Morgan McGlone (Belles Hot Chicken) and Mr Ross Lusted (The Bridge Room) are among those willing to squeeze into a spot the bar for a plate of whipped bottarga pretzels or scallop nduja toast, alongside a glass from the monthly changing wine list.
10 William Street, Paddington, Sydney 2021 ** Find out more here **
LISBON
Belcanto, Lisbon. Photograph by Mr Paulo Barata, courtesy of Belcanto
BELCANTO
Acclaimed Portuguese chefs Mr Miguel Castro e Silva, who has six restaurants in Lisbon, and Mr Henrique Sá Pessoa (at the helm of Alma, in Lisbon) are fans of Belcanto. Expect modern Portuguese cooking in an arresting space: the dining room is in a former gentlemen’s club once frequented by artists and opera singers, and is decked out in leather banquettes and chandeliers. Inventive dishes dreamt up by head chef Mr José Avillez – such as the seabass and seaweed creation entitled “Dip in the sea” – aim to “tell a story and stir emotions”.
Largo de São Carlos 10, Lisbon 1200-410
**Find out more here **
COPENHAGEN
Charcuterie at Bæst, Copenhagen. Photograph by Mr PA Jorgensen, courtesy of Bæst
It might seem unlikely that one of Copenhagen’s most-loved restaurants serves food rooted in Italian traditions, but laidback restaurant Bæst is praised by nine chefs including Mr James Lowe (Lyle’s, London) and Mr Niklas Ekstedt (Ekstedt, Stockholm). Many ingredients, from creamy mozzarella to charcuterie made with Danish pigs, are produced in-house, and they elevate simple dishes such as wood-fired pizzas and hunks of meat cooked on the charcoal grill.
**Guldbergsgade 29, ****Nørrebro, **Copenhagen 2200
Where Chefs Eat: A Guide to Chefs’ Favorite Restaurants (Phaidon) is out today
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