THE JOURNAL
Illustration by Ms Jeannie Phan
The cosmetic surgeon’s needle is, for better or worse, a sign of our times. Whether it’s Botox (to smooth out wrinkles), filler (to enhance one’s features) or mesotherapy (to revitalise skin), treatments that involve injecting our faces in pursuit of a confidence boost have boomed in the past two decades. Indeed, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, Botox procedures for men in the US soared by 182 per cent between 2000 and 2020. Were we ever quite so vain? We’d raise our eyebrows, but they’ve been frozen in place.
High-horsery aside, there’s plenty of things you can do to look good without becoming a human pincushion. It is more than possible to get great (and often more natural-looking) results from lighter-touch treatments without so much as seeing a syringe. Needlephobes rejoice! We’re not talking the frustratingly short lived “post-facial glow” here, either – but tangible, long-term results that address everything from acne scars to hyperpigmentation and fine lines. Here, six no-needle treatments to put on your radar now.
01.
Tixel
Best for: improving overall skin texture, tone and quality
A device that stamps the skin with a heated plate made up of small, pyramid-shaped spikes, Tixel is a relatively new treatment that tightens skin and reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation, wrinkles and acne scars.
“Tixel isn’t a laser, but is often placed in the same category,” says Ms Amy Peterson, a medical aesthetician who runs an eponymous medi-spa in Miami. By using thermo-mechanical energy to stimulate new collagen and thereby improve skin quality, Tixel forms tiny “channels” in the skin that are used to deliver ingredients such as tretinoin.
“It’s a great option for men seeking anti-ageing treatments because it almost gives them a two-in-one,” Peterson says. “Most treatments either address the surface of the skin (the sheets), or more foundational issues (the mattress). Tixel can treat a bit of both.”
Patients will notice changes in tone and texture within the first few weeks but will generally need two to three Tixel treatments spaced one month apart for optimal results. Slight swelling should be expected, and Peterson says the treatment can leave faint track marks for around a week. “Icing, hydrating the skin, sleeping slightly elevated and avoiding alcohol and salty foods can help lessen the downtime,” she says.
From $1,000 for the full face at Skincare by Amy Peterson
02.
Sofwave
Best for: tightening saggy skin without the need for follow-up treatments
An effective treatment that doesn’t require follow-ups and has no downtime sounds farfetched, but that’s what Sofwave offers. It’s a tightening device that works to lift saggy skin mostly around problem areas.
“We have found that most men start to complain about the lines and laxity, around the eyes, lower face, and neck,” Peterson says. “Sofwave can typically improve all of these concerns with one treatment.” By utilising something called “Synchronous Ultrasound Parallel Beam Technology” to rebuild collagen, it heats the skin at a specific depth and temperature to rejuvenate collagen fibres and improve the overall appearance of the face.
Because Sofwave is stimulating the body’s own production of collagen, Peterson explains, final results can take a few weeks to months. Plus, if you struggle to fit self-maintenance in your schedule, this might just be the thing for you. “Men with a busy schedule love this treatment as it’s a one-time only treatment with zero downtime so very easy to schedule into an on-the-go lifestyle,” Peterson says.
From $2,000 for the full face at Skincare by Amy Peterson
03.
Thermage FLX
Best for: diminishing wrinkles, smoothing and tightening the skin
“Although the conversation around male aesthetics and plastic surgery has normalised in the UK over the past few years, many of our male patients are still quite private about getting procedures done,” says Dr Yannis Alexandrides, the founder of 111 Harley St. An increasingly popular option at his clinic is Thermage FLX, a one-time treatment with zero downtime that uses radiofrequency and heat to stimulate collagen production. “You can go out to dinner straight after and no one will know you’ve had anything done,” he says.
By working to tighten and smooth the skin around the eyes, face, neck and promoting collagen production, it’s popular among younger patients (in their mid-to-late twenties and early thirties) “who invest in Thermage FLX as a preventative treatment to stay one step ahead of ageing”. As well as patients over the age of 40 that use it to target fine lines and wrinkles and address skin laxity around the eyes, face, jawline and neck.
From £2,200 at 111 Harley St
04.
The Perfect Peel
Best for: resolving active acne, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation and smoothing uneven skin texture
Primarily used to treat hyperpigmentation, acne scarring and active acne, the Perfect Peel works by applying a cocktail of ingredients including TCA (or trichloracetic acid), retinol, glutathione, vitamin C to the skin. It’s used to treat concerns such as acne or sun damage-related pigmentation, age spots, melasma, and also resurfaces the skin.
“It’s pretty effective, and usually you do one treatment, but if you’ve got really bad active acne, you’d maybe do three treatments about a month apart,” says Dr David Jack, a leading aesthetic doctor who runs his eponymous clinic on Harley Street. While the Perfect Peel is known its efficacy, it does involve some downtime. “There’s about seven days of peeling after the treatment where it’s like a snakeskin coming off,” says Dr Jack. While that may sound drastic, Dr Jack says the treatment involves no pain (“a bit of light stinging at most”) and after a week of shedding, brighter and smoother skin will be revealed that you’ll be proud to show off to the world.
From £450 per session at Dr David Jack Clinic
05.
The Egyptian Facial
Best for: making skin look clear and radiant with no downtime
If high-tech machines and chemical peels sound a little too intense, Dr Jack’s Egyptian Facial offers a lighter touch. Inspired by Cleopatra’s opulent beauty rituals, the treatment uses a popular technique called derma-planing, which essentially involves gently shaving the skin, and combining it with exfoliating acid peels, so it works as a supercharged facial.
“The aim of the treatment is to improve skin texture and also help any products penetrate a lot better into your skin because it optimises the skin’s microbiome,” Dr Jack says. “It also improves the look of hyperpigmentation, fine lines and evens out skin tone. It’s a pleasant treatment that takes about half an hour, has no downtime and for six to eight weeks afterwards your skin will look great.”
From £250 at Dr David Jack Clinic
06.
Emface
Best for: reducing signs of ageing by lifting and toning the skin
Working by placing pads on the face and emitting pulses of electricity that selectively contract facial muscles to give them a lift, you can think of Emface as a high-tech, muscle-toning workout for your face (or Botox without the needles). “Men are looking for the best ways to slow down the ageing process, and this is a much more natural approach compared to injectables,” says Ms Roxanne Lanthier, senior aesthetician at Notting Hill medical spa Young LDN.
The Emface pads mean it’s a truly “hands-free” treatment without the need for anyone poking at your face, and the treatment works to treat both the skin and the muscles simultaneously. For optimal results, practitioners recommend a course of four treatments, each a week apart, but as it only takes 20 minutes and downtime is next to none, it’s the kind of thing you can easily squeeze into your lunch break.
From £2,400 for a package of four sessions at Young LDN