THE JOURNAL
Belmond Villa San Michele. Photograph courtesy of Belmond Villa San Michele
“Florence is a manly town,” wrote Ms Mary McCarthy in her wonderful book about the city, The Stones of Florence. “It stands four-square and direct, with no air of mystery… no Gothic lace or baroque swirls.” Then again, if you have a cuisine as elementally perfect as the Tuscans, as sublime in its minimalism as bistecca alla fiorentina, why would you add ornamentation? Go to Venice for lustre, in other words, to Rome for the terracotta plaster and violet skies, but come here, to the banks of the Arno, for the satisfying symmetry of a city borne of a hard land with a hard history, built by hardened folk.
These days Florence is a city more readily associated with the flamboyant flaneurs peacocking about the fashion fair Pitti Uomo than it is for, you know, burning Mr Girolamo Savonarola at the stake. Still, there are still many fascinating parts of the city to discover, and as few men know Florence better than Mr Scott Schuman, the street-style photographer who has photographed much of the city’s most stylish inhabitants (and is on MR PORTER’s Style Council himself). From hidden trattorias to the best hotels in town, we asked Mr Schuman for some insider Florentine tips.
Where to eat
Trattoria Sostanza
Photograph by Firenzeyesplease.com
“Trattoria Sostanza is that idyllic trattoria you hope to find in Florence. Cosy, dark, with aged photos and artwork on the wall, delicious smells and the sounds of joyous Italian, American and Japanese conversations sparkling throughout the room, but as soon as the food arrives at the table it becomes all about the meal. Pro tip: order the pollo al burro.”
Where to drink
Harry’s Bar
Photograph courtesy of Harry’s Bar Firenze
“Harry’s Bar right on the Arno river is the obvious, but if it’s packed (and it usually is), at the end of the block is the hotel bar at the Westin Excelsior. It’s as refined and elegant Mr James Ivory’s A Room With a View, which, of course, was filmed around town here.”
Where to stay
Westin Excelsior
Photograph courtesy of the Westin Excelsior
“There are a lot of great hotels in Florence, but to feel like you’re staying at a truly Italian hotel, try the Westin Excelsior. The rooms still have a grand luxury about them, and great views of the Arno. But the hotel is situated such that within moments of leaving, you’re on the main streets with all the shopping, museums, and restaurants that Florence has to offer.”
What to do
Belmond Villa San Michele
Photograph courtesy of Belmond Villa San Michele
“You are in Italy! Live, luxuriate! And once you’ve done that, pop over to the Belmond Villa San Michele for incredible views of Florence from above. Have the hotel reserve you a car and driver and set out in almost any direction and you’ll be amazed at how quickly you’re in the heart of some of the most beautiful scenery Italy has to offer. Chianti to the southeast can be reached in minutes. A lunch at a winery is certainly within reach and worth the effort.”
What to wear
“If you excuse the tourists, Florence is still one of the best-dressed cities in all of Europe, where if you dress to impress, the effort will be noticed – and appreciated – by locals.”