THE JOURNAL

Park City, Utah. Photograph by Mr Jason Finn/Shutterstock
As we trudge through the slate-grey slush of almost-snow, negotiate the howling blizzards, potholes, flooded roads, overzealous office heating systems and delayed trains during our overcast British winter, it’s fair to say that most of us long for a season that is at least certain of itself, so we can indulge in everything it has to offer.
Utah may not be the first place that springs to mind when considering how to do winter properly, but it should be. Not only is the skiing among the best in the world (Utah, dispelling the myth that the US can’t do puns, calls it “the greatest snow on earth”), but the colder months offer the opportunity to explore the national parks, hike the canyons, ford the narrows and soar in the clear blue skies, unencumbered by the pesky domestic tourists who crowd the state’s stunning landscapes in the summer months.
Touch down in Salt Lake City and, at the first opportunity, rent your ski equipment. It’s good to have it at your beck and call if you suddenly feel the urge. Head 35 minutes down the freeway for dinner and drinks in Park City, a picture-postcard town draped with fairly lights, frontier charm and many, many bars. It’s the ideal introduction to your trip. Make sure you try an Old Fashioned and the sirloin tacos at High West Saloon.

High West Distillery Saloon, Park City, Utah. Photograph by Visit Park City
Park City is quite the tourist trap, so base yourself half an hour farther down the road at Homestead Resort in Midway, a sprawling, all-American retreat that is about to be upgraded to a five-star property and boasts a natural hot spring swimming crater, sleigh rides and sculpted ice castles. This ideally places you for the upscale Deer Valley Resort where the altitude, dry atmosphere and salty air guarantee powdery snow, or champagne powder as it is known. The term was coined by a skier in the 1950s in Steamboat, Colorado, where the snow tickled his nose like champagne. This provides perfect conditions for advanced skiers and beginners alike. After working up an appetite on the slopes, enjoy an evening of indulgence at the excellent Mariposa restaurant. We suggest ordering the fondue followed by the cookie platter.
The farther you move away from the skiing, the smaller the crowds get and, as you head south, the snow becomes more decorative, icing the tips of the rich red landscape. There’s awesome scenery at Bryce Canyon, home of the hoodoos. The best time to visit is either at sunrise or in late afternoon as the sun starts to dip, taking the rock through a dazzling spectrum of reds, burnt oranges, deep purples, warm yellows and Arctic blues. Depending on conditions, you can either hike or snowshoe. Just make sure your thermals are up to scratch. Temperatures can dip as low as -8°C.
In the SpringHill Suites, just outside Zion National Park, the huge lobby window frames a breathtaking view, which you can take in while sipping a beer in a hot tub under the stars. Base yourself here and take a helicopter ride with Zion Helicopters, the ideal introduction to the area. The true highlight of Zion, however, is The Narrows hike. In summer, these mostly shallow waterways are packed with hikers. In winter, a dry suit is a must. Getting armpit-deep in icy waters is not advisable in a pair of sliders, shorts and a flannel shirt. The cliffs, stark blue skies and giant icicles tower over you as you wade in wonderment through the crystal-clear waters. It’s not unusual for guided hikes to go on for up to five hours, so bring snacks in your dry bags.

Main Street, Park City, Utah. Photograph by Mr Jason Cameron/Getty Images
Make the newly opened Advenire hotel in St George, where high-end soul food and pioneer charm meet modern luxury, your final stop before you head home. The pork with refried beans coupled with a local IPA should re-energise you.
A trip to Utah at this time of year is almost meditative, certainly mindful. It is about indulging the winter, getting knee-deep in it and immersing yourself in all it has to offer. If you’re more après than ski, then park yourself in one of the excellent eateries and take in the views while your friends take to the slopes. But really, it’s about getting out and among it – the parks, the hills, the incredible canyons. If you return from this trip a little giddy, it may be because you’ve been 8,000ft above sea level, but it may also be due to the fact that you’ve just done your winter some justice.