THE JOURNAL
For years, we’ve charted the so-called decline of the suit – or at least the fall of the stiff, unimaginative two-button variations with uninspiring notch lapels. Thankfully, though, in recent seasons, a fresh wave of tailoring has turned that narrative on its head. As the latest collections show, the suit isn’t just surviving – it’s thriving.
Designers are redefining tailoring with bolder, more relaxed suits and separates infused with confidence and style, giving them a fresh sense of purpose and relevance in today’s world. We’re all for the suit’s continued newfound glory, so here are five ways to elevate your game this season.
Andrew Garfield at the Golden Globe Awards in Beverly Hills, 5 January 2025. Photograph by Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic via Getty Images
Colman Domingo at the Golden Globe Awards in Beverly Hills, 5 January 2025. Photograph by Taylor Hill/Getty Images
01. Exuberance is the new standard
Once exclusive to mahogany-clad rooms, velvet jackets have had a makeover. They’ve shed their stuffy associations to become slick, sexy and surprisingly wearable. TOM FORD has long championed opulent, regal fabrics, offering one-button jackets with dangerously peaked lapels in striking hues like deep purple and logan green. To avoid a dated, rigid velvet look, a slim jacket through the waist is necessary, plus, a modern twist. For instance, skip the bow tie and pleated shirt for a liberally unbuttoned white, open-collar shirt paired with tailored trousers. The result: a chic, bold, cocktail-ready outfit that balances sophistication with daring style. Still not daring enough? Lose the shirt entirely.
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02. Separate yourself from the rest
The evolution of the suit has redefined its very essence. It’s no longer just about pairing a jacket and trousers in matching fabric, but it now celebrates the art of mixing – combining different fabrics for a more dynamic and refined look. The secret lies in balancing complementary hues, such as earthy browns, like this blazer from Paul Smith, paired with other warm tones or contrasting light and dark shades. Texture and fit are equally important: a structured, boxy jacket pairs best with full-cut trousers and a shoe with some heft to keep the proportions balanced and polished. Looking at your suits as two separate entities will give your wardrobe greater breadth.
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03. Think outside the box
For the past decade, designers such as Mr Hedi Slimane have driven the narrative of ultra-slim suits. Thankfully, houses such as Enfants Riches Déprimés, Bottega Veneta and LOEWE have shifted the focus, favouring boxy, relaxed cuts that lean more towards workwear than traditional tailoring. It’s a refreshing take that broadens the appeal of otherwise classic suiting, thus allowing it to be worn casually while retaining a sense of uniformity and catering to all shapes and sizes. Boxy suits are a neat way to wear tailoring without feeling too dressed up. If you’re worried about toeing the line too closely, opt for a pair of sneakers and a T-shirt to take things down a notch.
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04. Be prepped for anything
It wasn’t long ago that dressing like you stepped off the campus of an Ivy League school was anything but stylish. However, fashion moves in mysterious ways and preppy style is going from strength to strength. It’s a straightforward formula: pair a traditional blazer with contrasting trousers and a plain or striped shirt, motif tie and black penny loafers. The result is a formal, well-presented look infused with subtle irreverence. It’s unusual enough to pass off as being worn in informal surroundings, but it can easily be worn for swanky dinners and events.
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05. Black is back
If wearing a suit is to make you feel confident, then wearing a black suit is to make you feel untouchable. Its simplicity strips away distractions, drawing attention to the silhouette, making it a sleek, effortless way to look the part and remove much of the guesswork from deciding what to wear. The simple approach, with a white shirt underneath, is the most effective. Still, plenty of designers showed us that a pop of bold colour – think fluorescent pink, teal or bright orange – protruding from between the lapels is a contemporary way of wearing the shade.
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