THE JOURNAL
When it comes to clothes, “made in Italy” is synonymous with the tangible virtues of quality, craftsmanship and design. It’s far harder, however, to put one’s finger on what it is exactly about the way the most stylish of Italian men themselves dress that sets them apart. Italian men’s style is instantly recognisable, but what are the sartorial quirks that take their outfits to the next level? This very question was part of what inspired Scott Schuman to set up The Sartorialist way back in 2005 – he wanted to record the way that men in Italy’s big cities dress in order to decode their tricks and understand how they do it.
All these years later and the world of men’s style has changed immeasurably. And yet, with nothing more at their disposal than great clothes, superb taste and enviable self-assurance, men spotted on the streets of Italy are still style superstars. But what is it about the way they update classic outfits that works so well? How do they achieve that distinctly Italian look, at once careless and artfully put together?
And how does one dress like an Italian when one is decidedly not? To add a touch of sprezzatura to one’s personal style requires a brief study of both the small things (accessories) and the big things (fabric and colour choices) that Italian men deploy to achieve their winning looks. Because, wherever a man lives, there will be something he can learn from the world’s most stylish nation.
01. Invest in a timeless blazer
It can be tempting to add, inexorably, to your wardrobe, following trends, buying the new-now-next, until you cannot fit even one more hanger into your closet. But, we – and the well-dressed Italians – believe in investing in timeless pieces that can be accessorised according to whim and will never go out of style.
“A timeless tailored jacket is a blue blazer with gold buttons, for instance, in linen or cool wool,” says the street-style regular and brand founder Alessandro Squarzi. “If it’s well made, it can be worn for a lifetime.” A more summery style, such as the beige one Squarzi himself is wearing in this image, will also stand the test of time. Just make sure that it is tailored to your exacting standards.
“There’s nothing more beautiful than taking the time to go to the tailor to have your pieces made to measure, and choose the fabrics and details of your suit. Wearing something that’s completely hand-sewn and cut to measure makes all the difference.”
02. Lean into blues
“Tonal Dressing” is fashion speak for wearing an outfit consisting entirely of different shades of the same colour. In this case, blue is used to great effect on top, on bottom, and accessories. But getting it right isn’t always an easy task.
“In formal wear, I would avoid pairing a jacket and trousers in two different blues,” says Fabio Attanasio, author of Scent Of Tailoring and Vita da Gentleman. “It risks looking like a mistake rather than a choice. If the blue is on the upper part, for example a blazer, you can play with infinite colour options for the trousers. If instead you start with blue trousers, the mismatch becomes a bit more delicate and certainly not suitable for the evening. In that case, I see a beige or off-white jacket as a good choice, for a summery effect. Or a Sahara jacket with a soft collar without a band, in cotton or a cotton and linen mix.”
03. Neutrals with nonchalance
The concept of stealth wealth has taken over the neutrals conversation of late – and we’re certainly not against choosing ultra-luxurious, yet incredibly simple clothing as a style choice. But neutrals don’t have to be perfectly pressed, cut slim to the body, or on the camel side of the spectrum in order to be elegant and charming.
“Neutrals are reimagined as a tool, offering a creative response to the growing need for freshness,” says Benedetto De Petrillo, founder of the eponymous brand. “By reflecting light, brighter tones have a genuinely refreshing effect, fulfilling the desire for breathability and serenity come summertime.”
See this gentleman’s flawless example for inspiration. Each item has a louche, devil-may-care appeal, from the voluminous white trousers to the colour-coordinated shirt and flight jacket. A matching baker boy cap and two-tone loafers indicate that careful choices were made here, which is the deciding factor between sloppy and suave.
04. Engage with casual suiting
The very essence of Italian dressing is sprezzatura – the art of effortlessness. Wearing a suit with ease often feels like a contradiction. After all, isn’t a suit the definition of effort? Here, however, we see that tailoring can be understated and cool, soft and unstudied.
“For Italians, elegance is a concept that goes beyond conventions,” De Petrillo says. “Our approach to casual wear offers timeless dressing by using silhouettes and materials that reflect the classic style while adding an elegant and sophisticated touch. Formal attire states what we do, while casual wear tells who we are and what we aspire to be.”
The secret lies in classic Italian tailoring, which is traditionally less structured than English tailoring and often unlined. Softer padding at the shoulders, and some clever pocket placement, make this a suit that you could wear to a lunch or on a date. Wearing espadrilles or yacht loafers instead of formal shoes will also help make this outfit more relaxed.
05. Details, details, details
“I agree with Coco Chanel’s philosophy,” Squarzi says. “When you dress, instead of adding, you take something away. I think that the only men’s accessories to wear are a nice watch, an elegant ring and – why not? – a nice vintage silver bracelet.”
So, you just need a spezzato suit, right? Well, yes, but this gentleman (on the right) has added teeny tiny little details to take his look to the next level. Not an easy feat, but effortlessly achieved by cuffing your sleeves just so and deploying accessories strategically.
If you’re feeling a tad more confident on the accessories front, consider adding a bag – one that gives the outfit an extra layer of texture for bonus points. Or contrasting shades. “A particularly Italian – but especially Neapolitan – approach is to always dare with colour while maintaining balance,” De Petrillo says.
06. The ties have it
What’s the expression? You must know the rules in order to break them. “A printed twill or Jacquard tie is certainly more formal than a tricot tie,” Attanasio says. “The most important thing, though, is that the knot creates an hourglass, that it’s not loose, that the blade and tail are aligned and that they reach the height of the waistband.”
We also spotted dozens of neckerchiefs in recent street-style reportage. A patterned or bright-hued silk scarf is a quick and stylish way to bring a little playfulness to a classic jacket, particularly when the occasion doesn’t require a tie.
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