Toes are out and opinions are split. In a trend nobody saw coming – except, apparently, all fashion designers – sandals and flip-flops dominated the runway at the menswear shows in June, where they were worn with suits at Auralee, AMIRI, Officine Générale and more. Earlier in the summer, in a move that proved controversial, actor Jonathan Bailey wore a pair of flip-flops on the red carpet. They were from The Row, so naturally were as sophisticated as flip-flops get, but still, the comments raged. Whichever way you slice it, people will protest if you parade your piggies in public.

A controversial proposal for those of us whose feet can’t be contained: put some socks on. Yes, we know, somewhere along the line, society decided that socks and sandals was somehow a risky pairing, akin to going sockless in loafers or wearing sneakers with a suit. At worst, it can be seen as a nadir of sartorial slovenliness, ie, the kind of thing you slip on to shuffle to the shops to buy toilet paper at 8.00am. But good style is all about pushing against the boundaries of old ideas and figuring out a new way to do it. And when it comes to socks and sandals, a smarter, suaver reality is possible.

First, choose your sandals. For beginners not yet used to mixing socks and sandals, it pays to begin on the more sensible end of the spectrum. An excellent starting point: fisherman sandals. Defined by their latticed design, fisherman sandals were originally named for the skippers and boatswains of the past who favoured how practical and fast-drying they are. Today, it reads as a relatively formal sandal that is smart, stylish and, crucially, great for ventilation.

When you’re ready to bring in the socks, keep them fairly conservative and let the sandals do the talking. For first timers, opt for a more subdued pair in black or gray, or a neutral earthy tone, which will help lift everything into smarter territory while still feeling suitably off-duty. A pair of ribbed cashmere and cotton socks in a sophisticated shade of slate grey look quietly luxurious and are thus perfect for the office, but what a shame to hide them inside your shoes. Show them off by pairing them with sandals such as these brown suede ones from John Lobb – complete with cutout details and thick latticed straps that let some air in without showing off too much foot and maintaining a sense of polish.

For something breezier, lean into some backless two-strap sandals. Birkenstock’s Arizona style is the most obvious choice here – minimal, versatile and easy to wear with pretty much anything, they’ll look satisfyingly summery with some linen trousers or shorts. For something more elevated, Brunello Cucinelli’s come in buttery-soft navy suede and have contoured footbeds for extra comfort. A rugged style of sandal, they’ll fit best with thicker socks that have a subtle workwear heft – see Beams Plus’ robust marled ones for a foolproof example.

Polished leather sandals are another way to help things look more dressed up. Gucci’s black leather examples are as sleek as a freshly buffed pair of brogues, and when paired with a breezy summer shirt and crisp tailored trousers are date-night ready. Relaxed enough to go barefoot, but still elevated enough to carry a good sock – say a deep merlot-coloured pair from Mr P. – they hit the sweet spot between casual and considered. Who can argue with that?