THE JOURNAL
Surfing has long been romanticised in popular culture. The pursuit of the perfect wave, the laid-back, sun-bleached lifestyle, the freedom of chasing your next ride. There’s an undeniable allure to the nomadic surf way of life – carefree, aspirational, untethered. But for most, limited annual leave means that when we do take a surf trip, we also want it to feel like a holiday, so a no-frills beach shack or the chaos of a party-heavy surf camp is not going to cut it.
Whether you’re looking to take up surfing for the first time or you’re a seasoned shredder, this lineup of luxurious surf stays make the perfect base for catching some of the world’s best waves, while maximising on comfort and design.
01. Nihi, Indonesia
Nihi is consistently voted one of the world’s best hotels – and guests would be hard-pressed to disagree. Nihiwatu, the resort’s first iteration, was opened in 2001 by American surfer Claude Graves, drawing wave riders eager for uncrowded, world-class surf to the island of Sumba in Indonesia. While the property has had a rather luxurious revamp under the ownership of American entrepreneur Christopher Burch and renowned hotelier James McBride, its soul remains rooted in the raw, unspoiled beauty that first attracted surfers here.
Today, Nihi is synonymous with its legendary break, dubbed “God’s Left” or “Occy’s Left” after the Australian legend Mark Occhilupo. It’s a dream for seasoned surfers, with its long, barrelling left-handers. To preserve the magic of the wave, access is limited to just 12 surfers per day, ensuring pristine, crowd-free sessions.
02. Regina Experimental, France
Built in 1907, this Belle Époque-style mansion in Biarritz has a certain glamour that’s often absent from your average surf hotel. The hotel leans into its illustrious history, preserving many of the building’s stunning features – including the Art Deco atrium and hotel bar, where it’s said the designer Jeanne Lanvin used to sketch her designs.
Regina Experimental is the perfect spot for a grown-up surf escape. The property is moments away from some of Europe’s best surf – you can see Plage du Miramar from your room – and guests can work with ESCF, the hotel’s local surf partner, based in nearby Anglet, to set up an instructor and a good board.
After you’ve been out, you’ll probably be ready to relax and enjoy everything the hotel has to offer. Highlights include the rooftop pool, which feels like it’s been pulled straight from a Slim Aarons shoot – and the Susanne Kaufmann spa, where surfers can ease out those tight shoulders after a few days of paddling out.
03. Uluwatu Surf Villas, Indonesia
Bali is awash with surf camps, and for twenty-somethings looking for a surf-booze-repeat “retreat”, there’s plenty of choice. But for those of us looking to avoid shared dorms and forced fun, choosing the right accommodation is key. Enter Uluwatu Surf Villas.
Located cliffside, atop Uluwatu’s legendary reef break, this boutique resort is a favourite among the surf elite. Kelly Slater, Rob Machado and Gerry Lopez all stay here when they visit the island. The property provides private access to some of Bali’s best surf spots, with a staircase leading to an uncrowded section of the reef – making the sometimes-tricky paddle out a whole lot easier. You don’t even have to worry about travelling with your board, as you have free rein over the complimentary quiver available on site, offering a range of board shapes and sizes for all levels.
Beyond the waves, Uluwatu Surf Villas has one of the best sunset views in Bali. The only decision you’ll need to make is whether to enjoy it from Mana restaurant with an Endless Summer Sangria in hand or from your own private plunge pool.
04. Al Suave House, El Salvador
While El Salvador’s political situation deters some travellers – and it’s always worth keeping on top of the latest guidance – the country’s rugged coastline is coveted by surfers. In the small surf town of El Zonte, every morning the beach is packed with groups chasing right-hand breaks, with waves climbing up to 10ft.
It’s this reliable surf that drew Matt Schapiro – the man behind Al Suave House – to El Zonte some 22 years ago. The land he bought and once camped on is now home to his latest venture, Al Suave House. The stunning five-bedroom property sits right on the beach and feels like the private home of a fictional former rockstar turned beach bum. Bedrooms are calming and minimal, with panoramic ocean views, while the communal spaces have been designed for conversation and connection.
05. Aethos Ericeira, Portugal
Located on Portugal’s surf coast, Aethos Ericeira is a fantastic base for hopping between the area’s many surf beaches. The sheer number of bays and breaks means that, no matter the conditions, you should always be able to find somewhere to paddle out.
If you’re a beginner looking for the communal surf camp experience – without the communal sleeping arrangement – Aethos offers daily group surf lessons for guests. Learning to surf is hard, and having a class of like-minded novices to compare daily aches and wipeouts with is great motivation to get back in the water. While you’re in the water, you’ll be learning from the best. Pro-surfer and resident guide Joana Andrade was the first woman to surf Nazaré, the biggest wave in the world, so she knows a thing or two about staying calm out there.
06. Watergate Bay, UK
This well-known Cornish escape has been a favourite among surfers for years and has maintained its reputation as the place to stay for a UK surf break. There’s plenty to keep you busy here, whether you’re perfecting your pop-up or simply surf adjacent. Plop yourself down by the 25m infinity pool with sea views – an appealing option if you can’t muster the energy for the (very) short walk to the beach. Or how about a spa treatment with a view of the waves?
Surfing in the UK isn’t as simple as surfing in warmer climes. For one, you have to wear a wetsuit. Luckily, Watergate Bay has dedicated wetsuit drying facilities and toasty changing rooms for warming up post-dip. Once you’re back in land attire, you’ll be ready for a beachside fish and chips at The Beach Hut restaurant. And maybe even a well-deserved pint.
07. Halcyon House, Australia
Cabarita Beach, just north of surf mecca Byron Bay in New South Wales, offers a more relaxed and uncrowded alternative while still delivering world-class waves. Like its lineup, the community here is more low-key than its neighbour but doesn’t fall short when it comes to design-led accommodation and standout dining. Halcyon House is perhaps the best-known stay – and for good reason.
This former 1960s surf motel has been lovingly restored into a 22-room boutique hotel, with each space thoughtfully styled with hand-picked antiques and retro flair, while always staying on the right side of kitsch. After a morning in the waves, head to Paper Daisy, the hotel’s restaurant (and a Cabarita institution in its own right), for a long, laid-back Aussie brekkie and the best coffee in town.