THE JOURNAL

Even though it was founded in Tokyo in 2010, Hender Scheme has the feel of a company that has been around a lot longer. Noted for its footwear, which are handmade with phenomenal skill, it was set up as a counterpoint to the mass-produced wares typically churned out by the fashion industry. For creative director Mr Ryo Kashiwazaki, this attention to detail can come at a cost. “I think there is a difficult side to any artisan,” he once said, rather tellingly, of dealing with his craftsmen, but as with his customers, he gets what he pays for, and then some.
As impressive as they are, hawking the goods is, however, only part of the business. Before setting up the brand, Mr Kashiwazaki worked as a cobbler, and brings that patch-up-and-mend mentality to Hender Scheme. So, not only are these products built to last, they can be repaired on the original lasts at the label’s shop in Tokyo.
If all of this sounds like a company out of sync with the world, pause and note the list of brands clambering to collaborate with Mr Kashiwazaki. Hender Scheme has an ongoing relationship with German giant adidas, while Mr Kashiwazaki’s take on Nike’s fourth generation Air Jordan has attained iconic status on par with the original shoe. The leatherworker has also paired up with clients ranging from compatriots Sacai and to Casio’s G-SHOCK line. And as for its own range, its rugged take on the Teva-style sandal has elevated this adventurous open-toed silhouette to an entirely higher level. In truth, this footwear manufacturer is always a step ahead.
But it’s not all about shoes. For MR PORTER’s The Japan Edit, the brand has turned its attention to the wider realm of leather goods and produced a series of standout pieces crafted from hide, including wallets, boxes and a pencil case.
“Instead of using our signature untanned leather and monotone colour palette for which Hender Scheme is known, I chose to develop this capsule mixing black and white leathers and stitching,” says Mr Kashiwazaki.
“I believe that the shaker oval boxes represent the best of what Hender Scheme has to offer,” the designer adds. “It marries the art of shoemaking with our signature leather technique. The body is stitched to the base of the box by our cobbler using the same technique as sewing the sole to the upper of a shoe, while the leather and hand-running stitch work on the body of the box demonstrate the beauty of our leather-making techniques. It is a stunning piece.”
We doff our caps to the diligent designer; handily, there’s also one of those in his exclusive capsule collection.