Four Ways To Make A Sartorial Success Out Of Spring With Brunello Cucinelli

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Four Ways To Make A Sartorial Success Out Of Spring With Brunello Cucinelli

Words by The MR PORTER Team | Photography by Mr Valentin Hennequin

14 March 2024

If you are looking to make a success out of dressing in the lighter, brighter seasons (and hurrah for them), may we suggest taking a steer from a man who makes it look easy? Step forward then, Mr Brunello Cucinelli, the Italian designer globally renowned for his exquisite craftmanship, where refined tailoring meets relaxed luxury.

Perhaps the neutral tones and clean silhouettes of his collections – which are as close to a uniform for Silicon Valley types as it gets – are why the Italian brand inspires such a dedicated following among the hyper successful. It is a huge success story, for one; last year was its biggest yet in 40 years of business. The way that Cucinelli runs his business appeals, too; building his brand in the most mindful manner possible, turning the Umbrian hamlet of Solomeo close to where he grew up into one of the world’s most charming, employee-considerate workplaces.

But business aside, the clothes, too, speak for themselves. Take the new SS24 collection, for example. Sport a Cucinelli blazer from the range and you’ll understand exactly how precise the tailoring. Get a feel for the highest quality knitwear in light, airy fabrics that make them a smart fit for a long, hot summer. Or take a stroll – ideally in the Italian countryside or French Riviera, if you’re lucky – in a pair of Cucinelli penny loafers, which epitomise the spirit of the entire venture, lovingly crafted to the highest specifications in Solomeo.

01. The polo shirt with a difference

Cucinelli famously described his treasured Italian workplace as “the hamlet of cashmere and harmony”. And even though the designer is forever associated with that particular yarn, which helped forge his name as one of high luxury, the SS24 collection showcases his equally exquisite work with other breezier materials. Case in point: this knitted shirt, a Cucinelli staple rendered here in natural textures, an airy blend of linen and cotton in freshly imagined deep and sky blues. There’s plenty more in the lineup – whether it’s an embroidered light linen number or a rib-knitted polo, Cucinelli’s spring shirts make for an ideal segue from a day in the office to the work summer party.

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02. Spring whites

Cucinelli loves a neutral like no other. This is the man who wooed his starry guestlist for his 70th birthday last autumn in his beloved Solomeo in a signature, sharply cut beige suit. The key to colour, as with just about everything else in the designer’s world, is to be relaxed about it. Sure, neutrals remain a cornerstone of the brand, but there’s always room for deviation. SS24 sees the brand play with the palette just a smidge, with hints of raspberry, purple and mauve, before taking a deep dive into picture-postcard French Riviera blues. Want to wear something to write home about? These crisp white linen trousers are a sharp option for sunnier climes, and are sure to look the business paired with comfortable suede penny loafers.

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03. Seasonal tailoring

Little about Brunello Cucinelli style needs elevation, given the time-honoured craftsmanship involved in each piece. Perhaps that’s why when you need to take things up a notch in the style department, for say, an al fresco summer wedding, this is a brand that doesn’t really need bells and whistles to rise to the occasion. Classic accessories with a little Cucinelli pizazz do the legwork, from a seriously dashing satin bow tie to a silk pocket square with the Solomeo castle corner detail. Hitting a dance floor come the wee hours? Undo the bow tie for a devilishly rakish vibe and avoid tired feet in luxe leather loafers.

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04. The revisited double-breasted jacket

While softer fits are the key to spring/summer T-shirts and knitwear, Cucinelli still maintains a keen eye for the details that keeps things looking sharp for the new season. At the heart of the endeavour? Impeccable tailoring, such as this double-breasted suit jacket, expertly cut from silk with a subtle sheen and revisited with silver-tone buttons, is just the brand operating at its finest level. You’d almost call it showing off if it weren’t just a pleasure. Pair the best in Italian tailoring with a relaxed rib-knitted polo shirt and penny loafers for a summer look to remember.

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