Maybe it says something about the state of the world that, increasingly, we’re looking at it through tinted lenses. Today’s reality is too harsh to gaze at without a filter, it seems. We need something that will make everything a little rosier, a little sunnier.

That’s one (slightly reaching) explanation behind the biggest accessory trend of the year so far: tinted glasses. A-list red carpets and fashion editorials are awash with them – colourful, not-so-opaque lenses that are very much in keeping with the throwback peacock vibe that’s pervading much of menswear.

Forget Emmanuel Macron blinding world leaders at Davos in a pair of mirrored aviators. Actors Jacob Elordi, Michael B Jordan and Glen Powell all donned tinted styles during awards season, joining a prestigious club of Hollywood leading men who have made them something of a calling card. Enigmatic A-listers like Jack Nicholson are devout wearers, while Tom Ford and Alessandro Squarzi are among the menswear royalty to do it well and often.

What they all recognise is that there’s something loosely countercultural about tinted lenses – a rogue choice for unabashed rogues. They are glasses worn by men who have less to hide, or perhaps those don’t mind being caught. It all comes down to confidence, says stylist Eric Down, who has worked with the likes of Tom Hiddleston and Chris Hemsworth.

“Traditionally, sunglasses hide your eyes,” Down says. “They shield and protect you from intrusion, they mask your feelings and provide a barrier between you and the world.

“Less opaque colourways reveal more of the eyes and face. They demand a wearer who is not afraid to hold a direct gaze or has the machismo to openly enjoy the view over a sundowner. Eyes are inherently sexy, so framing them in an attention-grabbing way signifies a quiet confidence that’s full of sex appeal.”

Because of the ubiquity of dark sunglasses, it’s tempting to think of tinted styles as something niche, but Down says they’ve always been there. “In the 1990s, you could link it to Gary Oldman in [Bram Stoker’s] Dracula. The blue lenses he wore had an unsettling quality,” he says. “In the 1960s, Steve McQueen’s blue-tinted Persol pair added the right amount of insouciance to crime caper The Thomas Crown Affair.”

Today’s trend takes in all of this and more, from 1980s-coded rainbow wraparounds to the sporty, technical sunglasses that have been popular in recent years. There’s even a touch of functional fashion, with lenses designed to filter blue light from our screens or polarised styles that reduce eye strain.

The question is how to style them. This is eyewear with optical oomph. It dares you to look at it, so there needs to be some sartorial chutzpah to make it work.

“What I like about a tinted frame is you can use the colour of the lens to add a stylish, vintage take on your look,” says stylist Sarah Ann Murray. Martin Freeman and Samuel L Jackson are among the men she’s put behind coloured lenses. “They are great as a day-to-evening accessory. The tinted frame means you can wear them in the evening and carry the look without being ‘that’ guy wearing sunglasses indoors.”

For an easy way in, she points to Robert Downey Jr, who often wears them as part of a tonal look. “Grey frames and a grey tint to accompany a charcoal-grey suit – a twist on monochrome if you will, and less harsh than black frames.

“For a darker, more rock’n’roll look, a pair of small black frames that feature light, denim-blue lens gives off a bohemian-cowboy-rocker-meets-Parisian-artist vibe,” Murray says.

One of the most popular colourways spotted on recent red carpets is tan or brown shades. These complement everything from 1970s-style tailoring to western wear. It’s an easy way to experiment with the trend, Murray says.

“It’s a softer, more retro look that works well with bigger frames and pairs with most wardrobe choices, smart or casual,” she says. “Pedro Pascal wears this look well. He is often seen with a tonal brown look, lightweight modern frames with a more vintage-style auburn lens.”

The usual eyewear rules also apply. The size and shape of your glasses should complement your face shape. The material of the frames should match the formality of your look. Also factor in your skin tone when you’re picking out coloured lens, Down says. “Sallower skin tones should perhaps not wear yellow lenses to avoid looking drawn, for example.”

Down also suggests there’s one thing you should wear with tinted glasses: a smile. “We’re programmed in the city to not make eye contact – eyes down, go about your business,” he says. “So, someone who invites it is quite confronting. Pair it with a smile: anything from a mischievous tilt to the lips that invites closer connection or mischievous adventures, to a full-on beam that says, ‘Here I am, world.’”