THE JOURNAL

Photograph courtesy of Tacombi
Forget soggy nachos – make authentic Mexican cuisine at home with this recipe from NYC’s street-food connoisseurs Tacombi.
If your experience of franchised Mexican food has left you in taco hell, you need to visit Tacombi, a New York taqueria that knows its tamales from its tostadas. Owner Mr Dario Wolos started serving tacos out of a Volkswagen Kombi (hence the name) on the beaches of the Yucatan peninsula in 2006, and graduated to a bricks-and-mortar operation a few years ago, while keeping the original laid-back surf-shack spirit intact; the Nolita branch features tropical plants and a Kombi taco stand, while the tacos themselves, from the mole poblano chicken with mashed sweet potatoes to the conchinita pibil (achiote-marinated pork shoulder swaddled in banana leaves), are served on no-nonsense tin plates. “The essence of Tacombi is 1960s-style Mexican hospitality,” says Mr Wolos. “We wanted to go beyond the standard clichés associated with Mexican food and culture and capture the feeling of all the different places where these amazing recipes come from. There’s a lot to discover in Mexico; it’s an awesome place, and we’re focused on showcasing the best of what we find as we continue our journey.” A large part of this is, of course, the tacos – a food that Mr Wolos describes thusly: “Tacos are for everyone – they represent a meeting point for all kinds of people in Mexico. Tortillas are our bread.”
The MR PORTER team are lucky enough to get a salsa-smacking, poblano-popping taste of this feeling as Tacombi is bringing its wares to our New York Block Party today. For those who want to create an authentic taco experience in their own shaq-ueria, scroll down for the restaurant’s hotter-than-jalapeno (not literally) seared fish taco recipe.

Should make about 8–10 tacos
Ingredients:
1–2 grouper or snapper fish (skin off, pin bones removed)
For the tikin xic marinade:
Part one 2 plum tomatoes 2 habanero chillis (more if you like it spicy) 1 onion, cut in quarters 1 poblano chilli, seeds removed
Part two 2 tbsp whole annatto seeds 2 tbsp whole black peppercorns 1tsp whole cumin seeds 1tsp whole coriander seeds
To finish 1/4 cup white vinegar Two limes Salt for seasoning
For the poblano rajas 3 poblano chillis 1 white onion Juice of 2 limes 2 tbsp white vinegar 1 tsp Mexican oregano Salt to taste
To Serve Grapeseed oil Fresh warm corn tortillas – about 8–10, depending on how full you like them Green or red cabbage sliced thin and dressed with a little salt and lime juice
Method:
Portion the fish into 2oz pieces and set to one side.
Preheat the oven to 180ºC. Roast all the ingredients in part one of the tikin xic marinade until the tomatoes and onions are soft and the tomatoes release juice. This should take about 30-45 minutes.
In a spice grinder, combine all the ingredients from part two, and grind into a fine powder, adding a little kosher salt to taste.
Combine parts one and two of the tikin xic marinade in a blender and whizz until smooth, adding the white vinegar and the juice from the two limes.
Let the tikin xic cool and then add the fish and leave to marinate for at least eight hours – it will be best if left for 24 hours, refrigerated.
While the fish is marinating, start on the poblano rajas. Roast the poblanos before removing the skins and seeds. Slice them julienne style and set in a bowl. Meanwhile, roast the onion until caramelised, slice julienne style and add to the bowl with the poblanos.
Season with salt, lime juice, vinegar and oregano. Note: crush the oregano between your palms before rubbing together into the bowl with the onions and chillies.
Let the mixture sit for at least 30 minutes at room temperature to allow the flavours to come together.
Once the fish is ready, season with a little salt on either side before searing on a hot plancha (griddle) with a tablespoon of grapeseed oil.
Build your tacos with the tortillas, fish and cabbage, and garnish with about a tbsp of poblano rajas on top of each.