Everything you need to know about socks.

Despite the fact that socks have been around for the best part of two millennia (the oldest pair discovered dates from about 350AD) and remain an everyday essential, we’d be inclined to bet they’re not an item of clothing you give much thought to. But, if you care about your appearance, like everything in your wardrobe (or underwear drawer), this staple item of hosiery deserves some attention, whether your go-to is a pair of Nike crew socks or some sleek cotton dress socks from Falke or Pantherella. Believe it or not, there are a few rules to consider when it comes to men’s socks, which we’ve listed below.

Sartorial purists will say this is a big no-no, but Paris and Milan designers of late seem to be trying to convince us otherwise, the recent SS18 AMI and Prada shows being a fine example. As a general rule, it’s never a good look worn with strappy sandals, but it could work with a pair of sleek leather slides, depending on your own personal style. We’ll let you decide how far you want to go with this, but in general, we think it’s best attempted with a thick, ribbed pair. That’s how those crazy kids are doing it on the runways.

It’s usually best to stick with no-show socks for shorts, unless the look you’re going for is 1930s Boy Scout. If you’re going for a skate-inspired look, however, we’d recommend a pair of mid-length tube or crew socks such as the styles embraced (in very different ways) by the likes of Neighborhood and Vetements.

In the summer months, loafers ought to be worn with no-show socks to give the appearance of going sockless – a far more hygienic alternative when the mercury begins to creep up. In winter, though, a thin, patterned pair of socks – nothing too flashy, mind – can add some much needed insulation as well as a little fun.

Given that your average boot is that little bit stiffer than a regular shoe, and it may also rub at the ankle, you should opt for sturdier socks here. Look for mid-length ribbed varieties with a bit of wool in them, such as the styles on offer from British brand The Workers Club.

The grand emperor of sartorial wit, Sir Edwin Hardy Amies had an opinion on all matters of dress, and socks were no exception. “It is permissible to wear socks of entirely different colour from the rest of the costume, provided the rest of the costume is one of a series of colours,” he said. “The matching of socks to the tie I find affected.” In other words, you can contrast your sock colour with your outfit, but make sure it’s still harmonious, without looking like you’ve tried too hard. For instance, if you’re wearing a brown two-piece suit with a blue shirt and tie, a pair of burgundy socks will provide a natty focal point. If in doubt, opt for a classic muted hue such as navy or dark-grey, which is unlikely to offend.

Patterned socks, as a general rule, are more casual by nature, and care should be taken to make sure the pattern complements the other component parts of your outfit. Try to match one colour in the pattern to other items in your ensemble, so it ties together. If in doubt, there’s no shame in sticking to plain socks.

After a while spent in the wilderness, white socks are creeping back into the male wardrobe in many different ways. You should probably avoid wearing them with formalwear, but feel free to explore white socks and slides, or to work a pair of white socks into a 1990s SoCal skater look (these are the socks to wear with Vans, by the way). On the slightly more grown-up side, you could also opt for a white-on-white preppy look, as sported by Mr Paul Newman.

A style with a short leg, with the cuff sitting on the ankle. Also known as sneaker or trainer socks. As the name suggests, they were originally reserved for athletic activities. They’re also sometimes called ankle socks.

Also known as invisible socks. They are absent of any leg whatsoever and stay on by stretching over the toes and heel of the foot. They’re usually made with a low denier and are hidden from view once worn with a shoe, giving the appearance of the wearer being sockless (without the hygiene issues).

The standard length sock that dominates today. They sit above the anklebone and are sometimes called crew socks.

A sock that extends well beyond the ankle, covering most of the calf and sitting below the knee. The purpose of this length is to provide total coverage and it is particularly favoured by Italians, who claim you can tell an Englishman when he sits down because he will show a flash of leg on account of his shorter socks, something traditionalists have always viewed as a sartorial faux pas.

A very popular knit in socks, ribbing adds texture and robustness and is particularly suited to cooler weather. The ribs also make the sock hug the leg, which helps it stay up.

Socks worn with formalwear, either a suit, tuxedo or white tie. They are traditionally always dark and over-the-calf length with an extremely fine denier that is almost sheer. The most luxurious dress socks are made of silk.

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