THE JOURNAL

Picking out a lightweight jacket should be straightforward. Sure, there are hundreds of different options, an almost infinite selection of colours, fabrics and styles that you can choose from. But then, it’s only a jacket, right? How hard can it be? And yet, in practise, identifying the perfect all-season outerwear isn’t easy.
As soon as the weather starts to warm up and “Big Coat Season” finally bows out, I always struggle to find the right piece. Desperate to fill this seasonal hole, I’ve tried pretty much everything. Over the years, there have been chore coats and jungle jackets, bombers and macs, windbreakers and sports coats, without anything ever feeling like I’d found “the one”.
On those vernal and autumnal days, when the temperature hits the not-too-cold and not-too-hot sweet spot, a lighter jacket comes into its own. There are, of course, various weather concerns to take into account, from April showers to the hot days of summer, which sometimes stretch well into September. The unpredictability of when, or if, you’ll need a lightweight jacket only adds to the difficulties of choosing the right piece. Something too bulky and it’ll quickly become redundant; something too light will barely be needed at all.
A light jacket isn’t just for those in-between days, though. It can become a year-round wardrobe staple, something that works just as well layered under a winter coat as it does in the summer when the evening chill sets in and your T-shirt or vest no longer cuts it. And with the right one, it will become a versatile essential that can carry you through those shoulder seasons and far beyond – overshirts and blouson jackets look particularly great underneath a longer coat in winter.
“The Harrington was born on the golf courses of Manchester before becoming a favourite of James Dean”
When it comes to making the right choice, maybe the best place to start is with the classics. There are some lightweight outerwear styles that have been worn for generations and remain just as useful as they always were. Just because something is a classic doesn’t mean it has to be boring. Think of the Harrington, for example, which was born on the golf courses of greater Manchester before becoming a favourite of James Dean. If you’re going for one of these tried-and-tested styles, with all the history behind them, there’s also the opportunity to have a bit of fun in a different way.
Try Baracuta, the originator of the Harrington silhouette. Or Brunello Cucinelli for a blouson set to maximum elevation. The ever-industrious chore jacket spans from the OG staple by Carhartt WIP right up to the sumptuous suede examples by TOM FORD, which, if you were being uncharitable, you’d wonder if they’d done a hard day’s work in their lives (and look all the better for it). Coming at it from different angles, the likes of Cherry Los Angeles and KAPITAL take the all-American denim jacket to new places. While the military-inspired field jacket has seen very different regenerations from the likes of Stone Island, Polo Ralph Lauren and ZEGNA. All these jackets show what can happen when you take a well-worn and well-known style and play with it.
Another style to consider, perhaps better suited to even warmer days or as a layering piece, is the overshirt. As the name suggests, it straddles the boundary between a jacket and, well, a shirt. They’re generally made with a thicker material and, if you’re really lucky, some pockets to differentiate from the sort of shirt you might wear to the office.
It goes without saying that overshirts are a relaxed and casual light-jacket option, and there is a whole range of different styles to choose from. You think you know a checked flannel shirt until you try on a cashmere blend by CELINE or RRL. Jil Sander has a zip-up version that subverts the style. Or push the boat out with a ludicrously luxurious leather overshirt by A.PRESSE.
With all these options, how do you choose which style is right for you? If there’s one thing I’ve learnt from my years of trial and error, it’s that everyone’s perfect light jacket is different. Some might want to go for something a bit more out there, while others will prefer a more classic and understated design. Try various alternatives, maybe take a risk with colour or material. And if you find a style that works for you, hold it close.