THE JOURNAL
There are a few essential building blocks of a classic dresser’s wardrobe that a man can count on daily, in pretty much any weather. Say, a great selection of shirts, a roster of crew-neck tees, well-cut trousers, timeless jeans, hard-wearing leather shoes and a rotation of sneakers. But what about outerwear? Choosing the right coat or jacket to complete your look and to protect you from unpredictable weather requires a little more thought and investment.
Take the trench coat. Humble at first glance but dig a little deeper and this storied piece now comes in every shape, colour and cut imaginable. So, where to begin?
First introduced during WWI to kit out British Army officers, it provided a lightweight yet functional garment with all the regalia required of the wearer in the thick of the trenches, giving the jacket its lasting name. Macintosh, Burberry and Aquascutum all produced variations, mastering weatherproof fabrics, technical features and the hard-working silhouette that have canonised it as a timeless piece.
The parka, peacoat, biker and bomber jackets have all proven to be worthy contenders for the everyman’s outerwear hero, but it is the trench coat that continues to prevail, toeing the line seamlessly between formal and off-duty style with ease. It’s also a style that remains true to its design roots while often undergoing seasonal reinvention, courtesy of today’s contemporary menswear labels.
A good trench is the kind of coat that works year-round, whatever the weather throws at you, thanks to its lightweight yet rainproof design and the ease with which it can be layered up and thrown on. However, it can be a tricky piece to get it right.
Before you start cribbing notes from Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca (1942), Peter Sellers in The Pink Panther (1963) or even Keanu Reeves in The Matrix (1999), read our modern gent’s guide to finding the perfect trench coat for you, with styling tips and tricks to keep you weatherproofed and suitably dressed for autumn and beyond – come rain or shine.
01. Keep it classic
How have trench coats stood the test of time? Benedict Browne, Style Director at MR PORTER, has some thoughts. “They were originally designed with function and purpose at the forefront,” he says. “They have an innate practicality, so they transcend fashion cycles.”
Turn your attention first to Burberry, the British label for which the trench coat is its calling card. “Thomas Burberry invented gabardine in 1879, the cloth many early trench coats were made from,” Browne says. “It’s become the brand’s signature creation.”
Burberry’s Kensington style deploys all those quintessential bells and whistles, including weather-resistant cotton gabardine and a lining in the house check. However, this style of trench coat is built for city folk and commuters. The short, knee-length silhouette is apt for drizzly weekdays spent navigating the Tube or bustling streets. It also has a neat, tidy profile that coordinates well with suits and smart separates. Available in classic beige, black, olive and brown hues, you’ll be hard-pushed to find one that doesn’t dovetail stylishly with your city-slicker ensembles.
02. Embrace the finer details
The traditional trench coat is characterised by some distinct military details. “As the name suggests, trench coats were designed for officers during WWI, with the intention of protecting them from the elements,” Browne says. Typical features include double-breasted with 10 neatly aligned front buttons, a tightly cinched belted waist, D-rings for attaching equipment, wide chest lapels, a storm-flap yoke, shoulder epaulettes to display rank insignia, buckled cuff straps to shield against rain while using binoculars and hip pockets that button shut.
The standard shade is a beige khaki, which not only provided camouflage but also withstood mud and rain. “Combined with a long length that falls below the knee and a collar that can be turned up and fastened with a throat latch, they provided excellent protection from all weathers,” Browne says.
Fast-forward to today, Burberry continues to draw on these heritage features, as do those from Manchester stalwart Private White V.C., which prides itself on military precision and artisanal garment-making techniques. “Today, it’s probably more protection than you’ll ever need, but it’s reassuring to know it’s there,” Browne says.
Need your trench to work overtime? Double down on the finer design details to ensure it’s an enduring investment.
03. Break with tradition
There’s much to be said for more contemporary iterations of the trench, which should appeal to those seeking a more undone, relaxed feel. For something with a more laissez-faire approach, look to the Parisian brands. “SAINT LAURENT, for example, has a sleek, minimal, belted, chocolate-brown silk trench coat that’s very striking,” Browne says. See Yves Salomon, also. Or take your gaze further still. “Enfants Riches Déprimés has a more grunge take on the trench coat, with a double-breasted front and a beautiful, drapey cotton fabric in midnight black.”
For something pared-back, New York label The Row has you covered, quite literally. Its oversized profiles, tactile drapes and high-collar necklines provide good coverage in paper-like weights, forgoing a belt entirely in favour of a simple swishy cut and generous proportions. Lastly, Valstar, Massimo Alba and De Petrillo give the trench a suitably practical yet off-duty Italian flavour in single-breasted, straight-cut silhouettes, making them easy to wear over transitional knitwear, shirting or tees with minimal fuss.
04. Check the length
Want the long and short of it? For now, just pick one. If you’re looking for something nipped-in, smart and corporate-friendly, a short trench may just be the ticket. For those seeking something a little looser, comfortable and trend-forward, a long-line style will work in your favour.
Browne is adamant about where trenches should fall. “Proportions come into it, but I personally have a thing about coats that don’t reach below the knee,” he says. “It’s the proper way.” In any case, the flattering cut and universal appeal of the trench, in all its guises, will suit many a short king and tall guy alike.
05. Wear it well (and wherever)
So, now that you’re a trench owner – and history buff to boot – how should you style it? Browne also has ideas on this front. “I have a dark olive Burberry trench coat which, this autumn, I’m looking forward to wearing casually with cashmere and jeans,” he says. “Trench coats have an inherent formality, so downplaying that is more enjoyable and, in my view, more fun to wear.” Take note and drape yours over your favourite knitwear and T-shirts, then finish with selvedge jeans and loafers for a laid-back yet classic weekend ensemble.
For smart-casual days in the office, pair yours with a half-zip merino jumper, a classic white shirt or T-shirt, tailored trousers and Derby shoes for a relaxed yet polished fit. From there, you can experiment. A$AP Rocky, Harry Styles and Arsenal’s Eberechi Eze are all modern purveyors of the coat if you need further street-style inspiration, whether laid-back, suited up or experimental.
Finally, in which situations or destinations is a trench coat most fitting: in the city, country, work week or off duty? “All of them,” Browne says. “Wherever there is rain, it is appropriate.”