Michael Rider is an American designer who cut his teeth in Paris. He worked under Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, before helping to shape CELINE’s vision during the Phoebe Philo years. From there, he was selected by Ralph Lauren himself to become the creative director at the eponymous label.

Anyone with a passing interest in menswear will know that many of the clothes that occupy our wardrobes owe their original designs not to creative expression, but utilitarian function. The American bomber jackets that first appeared in WWI and WWII were cropped so that the wearer could sit unencumbered in the cockpit, just as the roomy French chore coat had its sleeves attached at a more pronounced angle to facilitate freer and more comfortable movement. As these honest garments wended their way through society, they gathered meaning along the way. By the time Lou Reed and Sid Vicious wore black double riders with trim black jeans and leather combat boots, these three utilitarian items had become symbols of anti-establishment identity, even though their cut and detailing were initially made for bikers, miners and soldiers, respectively.

And just like that… the season of giving has arrived. Do you already see yourself rushing around, trying to pick out last-minute gifts come December? You’re not alone. Not to sound like a broken record but being prepared helps to make the weeks – or months, rather – in the lead up to the big day that little bit easier. You never know, you might even end up enjoying the process.

At some point over the past few years, the quarter-zip sweater became a signifier for the other half. Or rather, a fraction tinier still: the top one per cent. Prince Harry wore one. As did former the British prime minister, Rishi Sunak, in a move interpreted as an attempt to make him seem more accessible, until suddenly it didn’t. And this item of knitwear quickly became double bluff, a shorthand for the elite of the global elite trying to look like one of us.

Michael Rider is an American designer who cut his teeth in Paris. He worked under Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, before helping to shape CELINE’s vision during the Phoebe Philo years. From there, he was selected by Ralph Lauren himself to become the creative director at the eponymous label.

Anyone with a passing interest in menswear will know that many of the clothes that occupy our wardrobes owe their original designs not to creative expression, but utilitarian function. The American bomber jackets that first appeared in WWI and WWII were cropped so that the wearer could sit unencumbered in the cockpit, just as the roomy French chore coat had its sleeves attached at a more pronounced angle to facilitate freer and more comfortable movement. As these honest garments wended their way through society, they gathered meaning along the way. By the time Lou Reed and Sid Vicious wore black double riders with trim black jeans and leather combat boots, these three utilitarian items had become symbols of anti-establishment identity, even though their cut and detailing were initially made for bikers, miners and soldiers, respectively.