THE JOURNAL

Romy Schneider and Alain Delon in “La Piscine” (The Swimming Pool), 1969. Photograph by Collection Christophel
Summer isn’t just a season, it’s a state of mind. It’s a verb, a way of being – and some of us are simply better at it than others. Take the French. The French are exceptionally good at summering. It helps that France itself is strewn with beauty spots that are even more glorious in the sun – it’s much easier to summer right when your backdrop is the iridescent blue of the Cote d’Azur or a chocolate-box village in rural Provence. But more than that, the French just know how to revel in life’s pleasures and slow down sans guilt. So much so that it’s even customary to book the whole month of August off work.
There’s never a bad time to borrow a bit of the French joie de vivre, but in the warmer months more than ever we’re ready to embody that spirit. To that end, we reached out to a few of our favourite French people and asked them for their tips on how to eat, drink, dress and be merry à la Français this summer.
01. Plan no plans
“The ideal plan for a successful holiday is no plan,” says Greg Gassa, the co-owner of Tuba, a chic beach club in Marseille. “Planning will put you in the same mindset of when you’re at work. Wake up with no alarm, have a great breakfast, read a novel, get a late lunch, at home or by the beach, go for a boat ride if you’re lucky enough to have a friend that owns one, and party at night. (Does that sound like a plan?)”
02. Squeeze in a swim before breakfast
“French people love to do this,” says Celine Sabbagh, Brand Partnerships Manager at MR PORTER. “And not just on the Mediterranean, but even in the north of France, in Brittany. If you have access to the sea, that’s obviously ideal, but if not, an outdoor pool is a great way to get some movement in while enjoying the fresh air and warmth, rather than being stuck in a gym. Top it off with a warm croissant and the day is off to a great start.”
03. Stay in Paris
Contrary to popular opinion, Nicolas Gabard, the founder of the Parisian menswear label Husbands, thinks that right now is actually the best time to be in the French capital. “I love being in Paris during the summer because the city suddenly offers possibilities for solitude and daydreaming,” he says. “Paris is a dense city and in winter everyone is constantly in each other’s way. But in summer, the terraces appear and everyone rushes towards them. The interiors of cafés and restaurants become strangely empty. One can finally be alone there. The waiters treat you better. The murmur of conversations arrives like the distant wash of waves on a beach. That solitude is the poetry of Paris.”
04. Skip Nice and head to Villefranche-sur-Mer
“In Villefranche, the views overlooking the bay of Nice and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat are unbeatable,” Sabbagh says. “Although I’m from Nice, Villefranche has that je ne sais quoi. As locals, we also definitely want to stay away from the crowds in summer. And Villefranche still offers that little piece of quiet heaven if you know where to go.”
05. Better yet, go north
“I try to avoid the Mediterranean in summer and look for calmer places like Brittany and Normandy,” says Samuel Nataf, co-founder of Dumbo, one of the hottest burger spots in Paris. “Or head to the Alps – Aix-les-Bains is great for swimming and Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval has some of the most beautiful hikes in France. Temperatures are milder and you avoid running into all of Paris. In August especially, life slows down in France. Going for walks or picnics by a lake and generally being outdoors during this time is ideal.”
06. Save the shorts for high summer
07. And go shorter if you can
“French men’s shorts have got longer (or more American) with time,” Wise says. “But a true Frenchman still loves and respects the authentic smart short shorts, in white or navy, as worn by tennis legends Yannick Noah or Henri Leconte in their heyday. Not too tight, mind – this isn’t Miami – but well-cut short shorts are good for those with good legs.”
08. Invest in a three-quarter-zip
“I feel like the French have always understood the power of a three-quarter-zip and didn’t need a trend to tell them so,” Wise says. “A three-quarter-zip is an essential for summer evenings when a light chill sets in. And I’d hate to contradict myself, but they also look pretty great with shorts.”
09. Eat fresh and local
“One of the great advantages of being in France during summer is all the food is amazing,” says Fabrice Denizot, co-owner of Tuba. “Every region has its own products and gastronomy. And when you travel you only eat what’s local; it’s considered a sin to do otherwise. In Corsica, for example, where we go each year, the fruit and vegetables are amazing, and we have the best sunburst tomatoes, sweet peaches, apricots and melons. There’s also the local charcuterie made from chestnut-fed boars, fresh fish that goes straight on the grill, local beef and veal, local wine, local digestifs. It’s just endless delight.”
10. Stock up on fresh langoustines
“Whenever I’m at the Glénan Islands in Brittany, I always head to the viviers for my fresh seafood, ideally at low tide,” Nataf says. “I do a kilo of langoustines during peak season with mayonnaise and a good bottle of Pouilly-Fuissé and enjoy them sat on a rock by the sea.”
11. Have a long lunch (preferably outside)
“Two or three hours, ideally,” Sabbagh says. “And not just on weekends. In France, we love a good art de la table and having meals together rather than at your desk is a tradition that feels very sacred. We value the simple moments and a proper long lunch shared en terrasse – along with really good conversation, laughter and a glass of rosé – is the key to French happiness.”
12. Treat apéro as sacred
“L’apéro is a year-round religion in France but in summer it becomes the whole point of the day,” Sabbagh says. “It typically happens after work, around 6.00pm, and involves a cocktail or a nice bottle of wine with a plate of cheese or charcuterie. And you’d usually have it en terrasse or in a bistro, but they can also be hosted at home, which often turns into an informal dinner or a party. If you want to be extra French, go for a glass of pastis.”
13. Drink smarter
“I’m actually not sure that the French truly drink much less than the Brits or the Americans on holiday,” Wise says. “However, they at least they do it with a decent bottle, which lends the whole sorry sequence a sense of discernment. My friend Jimmy of Hector’s in De Beauvoir Town switched me onto Clement Baraut Les Herbes Folles, which is delicious both as apéro and with a meal. And obviously, eat with your drink. You can swim it off in the morning.”