THE JOURNAL
Photograph by Mr Adam Katz Sinding
Most of us probably don’t give much thought as to why roses are red and violets are blue. But the rainbow spectrum of shades that makes up our world actually has a potent effect on our mood and cerebral function. Green is said to promote creative thinking, yellow and orange are associated with energy, warmth and happiness, while red inspires passion. Blue is linked to strength and dependability and black is the de facto hue of authority.
It’s fair to say, though, that brown is lacking the positive rap of its Pantone partners. After peaking in the 1970s – a decade formerly panned for its design nous – it fell firmly out of favour. But as is the merry-go-round nature of fashion, the era that brought us the Bee Gees and the three-day week is enjoying a second renaissance and brown, too, is back in the style fold again. Just look at the current collections of Fendi, TOM FORD, Ermenegildo Zegna, Gucci and Lemaire if you don’t believe us.
But if you’re the sort who lives in black, navy or grey – or even acid brights – it can be hard to know where to start with brown. So, taking your cue from men who know how to make the most of a caramel-hued coat and tobacco-brown trousers might just be what your wardrobe has been waiting for.
01.
Try it in tweed
Photograph by Mr Daniel Bruno Grandl/The Urban Spotter
When you think of tweed, its association with country pursuits make the hard-wearing cloth a natural fit for earthy hues. What Cypriot-British designer Mr Hussein Chalayan has done here, however, is dispel any fusty subtexts by giving it a thoroughly modern rework: the asymmetrical cut of the jacket and exaggerated pleat of the trousers result in a look infinitely more suited to the urban streetscape than a bucolic idyll.
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02.
Follow a neutral strategy
Photograph by Mr Vincenzo Grillo/IMAXtree
This chap, seen here ambling down a Milanese via, knows that when it comes to mastering brown, neutral tones are your strongest ally. He’s laid a solid foundation with a crisp white T-shirt, before adding capacious, sandy trousers and a cream collegiate sweater vest to the mix. The result of this sartorial endeavour makes a fine match for his cocoa-hued overcoat. And although it's just out of shot, extra kudos is awarded for the fastidious tonal harmonising of his footwear with the rest of his palette.
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03.
Colour match – with a hint of contrast
Photograph by IMAXtree
For this sartorially fluent ensemble, this man appears to have taken inspiration from the shades of a New England fall, blending a range of tints from tobacco brown and maple bark to rich claret. He’s played the colour accord card to a tee, using the beaujolais hue of his rollneck to pick out the check of his coat. But use points of difference to avoid it all being a bit_ too_ “matchy-matchy”. For example, by shrewdly accessorising with a lemon-yellow fisherman beanie or two-tone loafers, you’ll make theentire ensemble land on the right side of the contemporary fence.
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04.
Graduate your tones and textures
Photograph by Frenchy Style/Blaublut Edition
Any dedicated follower of fashion will know that mid-century style has made a triumphant return to the limelight and is stronger than ever this season. These two chaps certainly got the memo as they’ve nailed the new-age 1970s revival in one fell swoop. By mixing tonal shades of brown and contrasting materials – from slick leather to texture-rich knits and twill cotton – they exude an irrefutably cool irreverence. They also clearly know that a sprinkling of well-placed jewellery works wonders for your style credibility.
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05.
Style up your statement piece
Photograph by Mr Edward Berthelot/Getty Images
This young man knows that, when it comes to truly great style, the devil is in the details. At first glance, his outfit might look low-octane, but it’s been put together by a practiced hand. Much like the fellow we saw in Milan, he uses neutral shades as a backdrop to frame the main event – his oversized brown and beige houndstooth bomber. Note his skilful use of his jacket’s two-way zip: by coolly fastening it just at the collar in a cape-like fashion, it imparts an air of contemporary swagger.
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06.
If in doubt, wear it with black
Photograph by Skwad Photography/Blaublut Edition
Black is undeniably the safety net of the style colour chart and we at MR PORTER will be the first to concede that it’s the most versatile, and least divisive, hue you can put on your back. Although these two don’t look much like shrinking violets, they know that low-key black can be exploited to allow other colours to take centre stage. Using that to their advantage, they’ve paired all-black ensembles with one focal brown piece – a leather jacket and cross-body bag, respectively – and as a result, standout enough to warrant some lens time from style-seeking shutterbugs.
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07.
Take a contemporary approach
Photograph by Mr Adam Katz Sinding
OK, we’ll level with you here and admit the raincoat pictured here in a rather drizzly Paris veers more towards the neutral side of the colour chart, but we’re going to go with the line that it’s “fawn brown”. What is certain, however, is that this erudite dresser has deftly exploited his mac’s soft hue and sculptural shape to set off his chinos and loafers in a manner that’s quietly impactful and forward thinking in equal measure.
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