Is it just me or, these days, are older guys dressing better than they did in their youth? Not all of them, of course, but enough for us to sit up and take serious notice. This goes against the common assumption that “fashion is a young man’s game” and that when men reach a certain age – say, their early fifties – they’re expected to gradually blend into the background until they become almost invisible. However, the likes of Pierce Brosnan, Stanley Tucci, Brad Pitt, Daniel Day-Lewis, Idris Elba and others are elegantly kicking this notion to the curb.
Every time they appear on a red carpet promoting their latest project or are spotted at Wimbledon, their unique and confident style is so evident it often leaves younger male celebs in the shade. Of course, part of this can be explained by the fact that they have all reached a stage in their lives and their careers whereby they don’t have to try to fit in with their peer group or worry about not being taken seriously.
“I think of dress as a form of social language,” says the writer Derek Guy (AKA Die, Workwear!). “Like any language, it takes time, observation and experimentation to become fluent. The key is learning the grammar of your chosen aesthetic so you can communicate ideas about yourself with fluency and subtlety.”
What they’ve all mastered is how to own and celebrate what makes each of them unique. For some, this might look like rebelling against the image that they developed when they were younger. For example, the deftly dishevelled style of Daniel Craig today is almost a counterpoint to the suitably starched alpha-male character he embodied during his 007 days. Compare this with Pierce Brosnan, who, since his retirement from the franchise, has only leaned further into the elevated stylings of Ian Fleming’s fictional spy. So much so that a plush double-breasted suit and rollneck recently had <GQ> announcing that the actor was “dressing like a Bond villain now.”
What unites both – and scores of other stylish sages, from Javier Bardem to Ralph Lauren to Mark Ruffalo – is that they haven’t tried to stay current by adopting any of today’s trends. In fact, avoiding fads altogether is one of their strengths.
“It’s important to stay away from short-lived trends,” says the stylist, creative director and art director Tom O’Dell.“There’s nothing worse than seeing older men dressed in clothes clearly meant for someone half their age. Style should evolve, not regress.”
The menswear consultant and stylist Luke Hodges (@mrlukehodges) describes these men as “embracing the stage of life they’re in. Stanley Tucci and Bill Nighy are great examples of this; you can feel the confidence and ease in what they wear.” Hodges’ advice is to “aim for clean silhouettes in an earthy, rich colour palette. Keep it simple, focus on shape, texture and quality.”
It also helps if you look at your wardrobe with a fresh eye and update it regularly. Clothes that you liked to wear when you were younger might not suit you as you age. One thing we can glean from these stars is that they’re not afraid of changing up their image. This is in contrast to our tendency to hang on to clothes, like old friends, often wearing something out of habit or out of emotional attachment.
“As a costume designer I never discard any garments,” says Adam Howe, who was nominated for a Bafta for his work on <The Serpent>. “But as a rule, if you have never worn a purchase, especially if you have tried it on many times, donate it to a charity shop.”
However, it makes sense to hold onto quality accessory pieces, Howe says. “I have been collecting vintage ties for decades and they are a great way to enhance an outfit.”
Personal style should be an ongoing evolution. “The biggest mistake isfalling into routine and losing curiosity,” O’Dell says. “As men get older, they often narrow down where they shop, relying on the same handful of brands and everything starts to look the same. That’s when style becomes stagnant.”
Some star advice from Hodges is the importance of wearing clothing that complements our body shape. “Fit is crucial, especially as a lot of us no longer have the physique we did in our twenties,” he says. “High-rise trousers, or high-ish if you’re more reserved, can do wonders for elongating the legs and disguising any hint of a muffin top. And don’t be afraid of pleats. They add extra room where you need it and give a lot of visual interest tithe simplest of outfits.”
“The best-dressed men are rarely lone auteurs,” Guy says. “They rely on a network of skilled professionals who help them get it right.” Jeff Goldblum, for example, has collaborated with the LA-based stylist Andrew Thomas Vottero for several years, while Colman Domingo often works with the stylist duo Wayman Bannerman and Micah McDonald of Wayman + Micah on his red-carpet looks.
Having your own stylist on call might feel like a bit of a stretch for the rest of us, but the advice from Guy remains. “Seek out expertise,” he says. “Nothing replaces a good tailor’s eye or an experienced clothier’s guidance.”
Hodges agrees, highlighting the importance of finding a good alterations tailor. “They can work with your physique to get the most out of what you already own and make off-the-peg pieces look made for you.”
By refusing to fade out, by tuning into their own taste, by avoiding trends and by working with others, dressing well is no longer a thing of the past for men of a certain age. “As long as they keep enjoying clothes,” O’Dell says.
