It isn’t hard to see why the Mallorcan capital of Palma has become such a city hot spot – with its honey-toned old town, vibrant social scene, striking Gothic cathedral, art and culture institutions and close proximity to the island’s breath-taking beaches and bucolic countryside. But, unsurprisingly, it is a challenge to avoid the tourist hoards and get a true sense of this buzzy Balearic island. Below, Enrique Miró-San, co-owner of the Portella hotel – a recent addition to Palma’s hotel offering, a thoughtfully reimagined 17th-century residence in the old town – shares his expert insider recommendations.

“My favourite place, which I could visit every week, is Ses Coves. Not only is the location impressive, but also its food and team. The cuisine is based on the best produce available on the island and specific regions of the Iberian Peninsula, with a focus on grilling. The place is run by a family – the whole project revolves around a 360-degree vision. They have their own garden. Recently, they’ve started raising their own cattle. It’s a project at an incredible level and I’m sure it will evolve into an even more exciting space.

“Early spring is the best time to visit – you see the verdant green surroundings bloom into life and can still catch some late winter seafood. Memorable dishes for me are the teardrop peas or some mushrooms, then a few gambas. Then the main courses, I’d go for the virrey fish and finish with the chuletón steak.”

“For cocktails, a new place has opened that I like very much called Burgundí. I am a big fan of a good dry martini – extra dry with gin, olive and lemon zest. Perfect to unwind at the end of a day. Two more of my go-to spots are Gibson and Nicolás, two bars well located in Palma’s Plaça del Mercat.”

“I often head to Parc de La Mar. It's a wonderful spot to watch the sunset over the Serra de Tramuntana, with the cathedral’s sandstone reflecting beautifully on the water – a peaceful scene mostly enjoyed by locals and their dogs. As for a restaurant, Azabache, run by Moisés from the Basque Country, is one of my favourites and is known for its unbelievable ensaladilla Rusa and delicious lamb sweetbreads tapa.”

“Always start at the market, it’s one of the best ways to understand the culture and vibe of a place. You need to first visit Mercat de L’Olivar, in the centre of Palma, then you can go to the Fundación Banca March, which is very nearby. It holds a magnificent collection of art, Mallorcan, Spanish and international, held by one of the most well-known Mallorcan families, the March. Afterwards, swing by the cathedral and finish at the Fundació Joan Miró museum.”

“Start the morning with a hike to Castell de Bellver. I love this place – it is a striking circular fortress that stands over the city. It is an invigorating hike and you’re surrounded by pine-scented pathways. As you climb, you see the city slowly unfold beneath you, a panorama of terracotta rooftops and the shimmering blue of the Bay of Palma. Mesmerising. Get lost walking around Casc Antic, eat some pa amb oli or go to a wine bar – Ca’n Nofre is a great option. Have a siesta and spend the afternoon chilling at the terrace of the Gibson at Plaça del Mercat, watching the neighbourhood come alive. Then in the evening, our terrace at Portella is open to guests and non-residents alike this summer. It is a beautiful spot for an aperitif and some simple but delicious family feasting style bites.”

“My favourite is to Es Caragol beach. It’s a bit isolated and that is part of its beauty. If I go early, I make sure to have a late meal at Bodega Manolo, where I always order their delicious squid.”

“My secret spot in Palma is Bar La Tabernita Desde 1992. Located in an industrial area, it’s so unassuming you’d never find it without a tip. Another very local spot is Bar Alberca, where the family running it makes breakfast over an open fireplace inside the bar, offering a magical and authentic experience. This for me encapsulates the true spirit of Mallorca.”