Into The Wild: Introducing Eye/LOEWE/Nature

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Into The Wild: Introducing Eye/LOEWE/Nature

Words by Ms Molly Isabella Smith

16 January 2019

Why the new outdoorsy offshoot of the Spanish house will have you communing with nature – and technical fabrics.

It pains me to admit now, but I was rather late to the Loewe party. Mainly, I confess, because I secretly harboured a constant worry I’d mispronounce it in front of a fashion-literate audience. Rest assured, I quickly realised my mistake when I actually got my hands on the stuff (and summoned the courage to ask a colleague to sound it out for me: it’s “loh-wev-eh” if you’re similarly confused by all those vowels). Mr Jonathan Anderson’s designs for the Spanish house are best enjoyed up close and personal, just one of the reasons the brand opts for hands-on presentations and exhibitions of the menswear line in lieu of runway shows. The particular piece that cemented my appreciation was an oversized (and impossibly fluffy) sweater emblazoned with two large squirrels from several seasons ago. Yes, it’s satisfyingly silly, but it’s also incredibly well made: everything from the fit to the fuzzy fabric has an elevated homespun quality. And it marries two of Mr Anderson’s greatest passions: nature and craftsmanship.

Which is why the designer’s latest endeavour feels like an organic progression of his crafty philosophy: Eye/LOEWE/Nature is a new permanent capsule collection inspired by the great outdoors and – good news! – it’s just landed at MR PORTER. The collection, Mr Anderson says, was inspired by his younger brother and represents an out-of-the-box (and more accessible) approach to luxury clothes.

So, what’s in the box? Parkascargo pants and an excellent selection of Japanese-engineered convertible backpacksmessengers and pouches make up the bulk of the offering with a smattering of knitwear options and slub T-shirts rounding things off nicely. Graphics-wise, vibrant prints and a new abstract logo come courtesy of design collective M/M (Paris), who previously worked closely with Mr Anderson to redesign the house’s iconic Anagram signature.

And then there’s the fabrics. The designer has deftly juxtaposed the natural with the manmade, so there’s recycled cotton, wool and a hardy heritage-inspired canvas as well as swathes of brightly-coloured nylon to satisfy any worries this stuff isn’t up to scratch, practically speaking. Ideal then, whether you’re venturing into the depths of the wilderness or, as is perhaps more likely, about to embark on an especially trying commute.

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