THE JOURNAL

Kalibos cabbage, quince and fallow deer shoulder ragu. All photographs courtesy of Lyles
Earlier this month, MR PORTER visited Michelin-starred restaurant Lyle’s in Shoreditch, east London, for a dinner that riffed on the rustic theme of game. Although it was a mild September evening (it was hovering around 20ºC, to be precise) perhaps unsuited to earthy quarry, it is very much the season for it, so it was a fitting focus for the evening. The difference here was the creativity and innovation on show in each of the dishes. Mr James Lowe, the owner of Lyle’s, had invited top chefs from around the world – including Mr Christopher Kostow from three-Michelin starred Meadowood in Napa Valley, California, Mr Blaine Wetzel of The Willows Inn on Lummi Island, Washington, and Ms Agata Felluga of Jour De Fête in Strasbourg – to help out with the 14-course dinner. If you didn’t have the chance to attend and you’re feeling adventurous, we asked three of the chefs, including Mr Lowe himself, for the recipe for one of their dishes. Quick 30-minute meals these are not, but what better time to spend long evenings in the kitchen than when the weather is turning and the nights are drawing in?

Left: Prawn and partridge won ton. Right: Mr Jowett Yu
Recipe by Mr Jowett Yu, Ho Lee Fook, Hong Kong
Makes 40-50
Prawn and partridge won tons
Ingredients:
- 300g raw king prawns, heads and tails off, de-veined
- 10g salt
- 35g sugar
- 50g sesame oil
- 10g monosodium glutamate
- 10g ginger, finely grated
- 25g coriander stems, finely chopped
- 50g black trumpet mushrooms (or black fungi), julienned
- 300g partridge meat, skin on, diced into 1cm pieces
- 50-60 yellow square wonton wrappers
- Green shallot, thinly sliced into rondelles, to serve Coriander leaves, to serve
- Ground sichuan pepper or chilli powder (optional), to serve
For the spice-infused dark soy:
- 100g Chinese dark soy sauce
- 78g brown sugar
- 1.5g fennel seeds
- 5g cassia bark
- 1g red sichuan pepper
- 1 star anise
- 8g ginger, finely sliced
- 2 spring onions, white part only
For the prawn won ton dressing:
- 100g spice-infused dark soy (see above)
- 60g chilli oil 8g sesame oil
- 10g sichuan pepper oil
- 50g shellfish oil
- 5g monosodium glutamate
- 5g light soy sauce
- 2g chilli powder
- 0.5g ground red Sichuan pepper
- 10g minced garlic
Method:
First prepare the spiced dark soy. Put all the ingredients in a pan with 175g water and bring to the boil. Turn down to a simmer for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, take the pan off the heat and leave everything to steep for 30 minutes. Strain.
Next, prepare the prawn won ton dressing. Combine the spice-infused dark soy with 22g water and the rest of the dressing ingredients and set aside.
Roughly chop the king prawns into 1.5cm chunks. Place in the bowl of a stand mixer with a paddle attachment and whip until a sticky paste forms and it becomes pale white in colour. Add the salt, sugar, sesame oil, monosodium glutamate and ginger and whip to combine. Then gently fold in the coriander stems, black trumpet mushrooms and partridge until well combined.
Place about 20g mixture in each won ton wrapper, then fold in half and neatly pleat each won ton.
Drop the won tons into a large pot of boiling water, stir so they don’t stick to the bottom of the pot, then turn the heat off. After two minutes, bring the water back to the boil, then turn off the heat again. Repeat this step until all the wontons are floating or the internal temperature is at least 70ºC. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on a serving plate.
Dress generously with the prawn won ton dressing and garnish with green shallot and coriander leaves. For a good time, sprinkle with ground Sichuan pepper or chilli powder.

Left: Kalibos cabbage, quince and fallow deer shoulder ragu. Right: Mr James Lowe
Recipe by Mr James Lowe, Lyle’s, London
Serves 4
Kalibos cabbage, quince and fallow deer shoulder ragu
Ingredients:
- 4 banana shallots
- 50g butter
- Pinch of mace
- Pinch of nutmeg
- 700g minced deer shoulder
- 300g minced fatty pork belly
- 300ml port
- 4 sprigs of thyme
- 2 bay leaves
- 15g pink peppercorns
- 400g chicken stock
- Salt and red wine vinegar, to taste
- 1 Kalibos cabbage
- Olive oil, for frying
For the pickled quince:
- 300g sugar
- 4 quince
Method:
Make the pickled quince the day before. Combine 400g water with the sugar and bring to the boil to dissolve the sugar. Peel the quince (but save the skin), cut into quarters and remove the cores. Add the quince, skin and cores to an ovenproof pan and cover with the hot sugar syrup. Place in an oven preheated to 160°C/Gas 3 for three to four hours or until the quince is soft and has changed colour to become darker. Allow to cool in the liquid.
Next day, finely dice and sweat the shallots in a heavy-based casserole dish (lid on) with 50g butter and the ground mace and nutmeg. Cook on a low heat for 40 minutes until they soften and become translucent.
Meanwhile, in a second frying pan or casserole dish fry the venison mince and pork mince in batches. Have the pan on a high heat, but if either the fat or the pan looks like it’s starting to burn, turn it down. It should be possible to find a happy medium where the meat colours but doesn’t burn. Transfer the browned meat to a plate or container until all of it is coloured.
When you have coloured all the meat, pour in the port to help clean up all the brown bits on the bottom of the pan. Let it come to a simmer and then add to the shallots. Tie the thyme, bay leaves and peppercorns in a square of muslin cloth to form a sort of sealed tea bag and add to the shallots. Bring the port to boil and cook until it has reduced by 20 per cent. Add the meat and then cover with chicken stock by 3cm. Cook uncovered in an oven preheated to 160ºC/Gas 3 for two hours or until the stock reduces to the level of the meat and becomes richer. Check the seasoning and add salt or a splash of red wine vinegar if necessary.
Cut the cabbage in half and then into wedges that are 3cm thick on the outside. Grill or fry one side of the cabbage wedge in a little olive oil until very dark, then the other. Leave to cool slightly, cut the core/root off and separate the leaves. Add a leaf to the bottom of a plate or bowl, then layer in slices of more cabbage with the ragu and slices of quince.

Left: Raw fallow deer and garlic bread. Right: Ms Agata Felluga
Recipe by Ms Agata Felluga, Jour De Fête, Strasbourg
Serves 4
Raw fallow deer with garlic bread
Ingredients:
- 20g juniper berry powder
- 20g sea salt, plus extra for seasoning
- Pinch of sugar
- 200g fallow deer loin
- 1 bunch of parsley
- 2 garlic cloves
- 1 tsp capers, salt rinsed off
- 5 anchovies
- 125g unsalted butter, at room temperature
- Zest of 1 lemon
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 100g breadcrumbs
- 1 tsp cayenne pepper
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 2 tbsp chardonnay vinegar
- Extra virgin olive oil, to serve
- Apple cider vinegar, to serve
- 1 loaf porridge and beer bread, or rye bread, to serve
Method:
Combine the juniper berry powder, 20g sea salt and sugar. Coat the deer loin with this seasoning and let it rest for 90 minutes at room temperature.
Finely chop the parsley, garlic, capers and anchovies and add to the butter. Season with the lemon zest, a pinch of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Mix thoroughly, reserve in the fridge.
Toast the breadcrumbs in a pan until they are light brown in colour. Season with Cayenne pepper, salt, olive oil and chardonnay vinegar. Set aside.
Rinse the juniper salt and sugar powder from the deer loin and dry carefully. Cut the meat into thin slices and season with extra virgin olive oil and a few drops of apple cider vinegar.
Spread some seasoned butter on a thin slice of porridge and beer bread and toast in an oven preheated to 180°C/Gas 4 for a few minutes, until crispy but with a soft core. Place some deer meat on the toast, garnish with the breadcrumbs and serve.