The master of minimalism, renowned for combining tailoring with technical fabrics, creates a limited-edition capsule collection for MR PORTER .

Does Mr Neil Barrett know something we don’t? It seems like it. Since he launched his eponymous brand in 1999, the British-born designer has occupied an enviable position in the style pantheon, never quite at the centre of attention but always ahead of the curve. His knack for spotting the next big idea has something of an historic pedigree – after all, he was the man responsible for the launch of Prada’s game-changing, irresistibly utilitarian menswear in the mid-1990s. But it’s also ensured staying power for his collections under his own name. After more than 20 years in the business, he’s still in the vanguard. The luxe sportswear trend that went mainstream last year is a design idea that he’s been working with for a decade.

“I think I have one perspective that can be developed in many, many ways,” he says, when asked to pin down the reason for his slow-burn appeal. “And that is making hybrids of sportswear with tailoring, or street style and tailoring. That’s my story. I’ve stuck to it and I believe there’s a realness about it. And I think it’s very current, in whatever year I’m designing.”

For proof of this, you need look no further than this season and its many Barrett-y overtones. There’s tailored sweatpants (see Neil Barrett spring 2011, oversized, drop-shouldered coats (see Neil Barrett winter 2012 and myriad examples of sport details given the luxury treatment (see Neil Barrett… well, just pick a season). Mr Barrett’s own collection for autumn/winter 2014 proves that he’s never been more deft at manipulating such elements, with its impeccably cut bomber jackets, cuffed wool trousers and further iterations of his current stand-out piece: the structured, panelled sweatshirt. Simple and functional, but with a bold personality courtesy of well-placed graphic prints, the collection continues a streamlined look that Mr Barrett has well and truly nailed in the past few years. And he knows it: “Absolutely. I feel as if I’ve focused more on what I want in a graphic sense over the past four or five collections,” he says. “The reason for doing this is to make things more visible, more recognisably Neil Barrett.”

Which brings us on to the exclusive capsule collection Mr Barrett has designed for MR PORTER – a neat, concise reminder of all the elements that make Neil Barrett clothes particularly special. Focusing on a dégradé (partially and deliberately worn away) fabric that Mr Barrett developed for autumn/ winter 2014, which fades seamlessly between shades of grey and black for a gradated effect,  the collection is as functional as it is visually pleasing. Mr Barrett recommends pairing one dégradé piece with items from your existing wardrobe – each one, he says, “makes an outfit”. But he’s also keen to point out the attention to fabric and fit in each garment – a common theme of Neil Barrett collections.

Mr Barrett notes in particular how the jackets and trousers have been rendered in a wool jersey, allowing for greater flexibility than traditional tailoring fabrics, which are typically woven. “They stretch in 360 degrees, so they mould to your body,” he says. “The fabric also has a great memory – creases will fall out once you’re moving.”

Such focus on detail comes naturally to Mr Barrett, who was educated at Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art in London but has always worked in Italy – the mother lode of European luxury production, thanks to its multitude of small factories and long lineage of artisanal workers. The Italian-made integrity of his products has always been unquestionable, an asset which, he says, keeps his loyal following coming back for more.

“My DNA is very much about minimal design. About creating garments that are apparently simple. I always cut to flatter. The fabrications always have a great hand. It’s understated, modern. And this combination together makes the garments desirable. And when people wear them, they become their favourites.”

Unlike some, these aren’t pieces to be worn for a season and discarded. They’re designed to fit neatly into the male wardrobe, for good. What’s more, they’re also part of a wider story of menswear – whatever Mr Barrett works on, after all, tends to be picked up a few seasons later by others. And if all that sounds good, you should try wearing them.

Mr Barrett has been living and working in Italy since 1989, when he was tapped for a job at Gucci shortly after graduating. It goes without saying, then, that he’s a man who knows how to do the Italian capital in style. Here are his top tips for a trip to the home of Italian fashion.

**Eat: Pumpkin ravioli at Giordano il Bolognese **Mr Barrett says: “A very traditional Italian trattoria. Not a fashionable destination; expect nothing but exceptional home-made food.”

Drink: Aperol spritz at the Bulgari hotel Mr Barrett says: _“Beautiful in the summer because of its garden and outdoors.” _

See: Villa Necchi Campiglio Mr Barrett says: “A high point of Milan’s architecture. It was designed in the 1930s by Piero Portaluppi and its original interiors and amazing gardens are preserved.”

Visit: Cervinia Mr Barrett says: “Cervinia, a skiing destination by the Alps, is a short drive away from Milan. It’s a perfect getaway for winter weekends. Stay at the Hotel Hermitage and enjoy lunch by the piste at Chalet Etoile.”

Stay: Park Hyatt “Situated just beside the iconic Galleria, ultimately modern yet cozy, and with an international flair.”