Which Jacket Tribe Will You Choose?

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Which Jacket Tribe Will You Choose?

Words by Mr Jim Merrett

10 January 2025

You are a man of many layers, that much is true. And yet, all too often, it’s only the top layer that really counts. It is what most people first encounter, after all. And it’s your first line of defence when it comes to withstanding the elements. Look, we’re not here to delve too deeply into your psychological makeup, merely to point you towards our excellent line of outerwear.

Or are we? Because there is an argument to be made that the jacket you wear can really tap into the guy that you see yourself to be. As Dr Abraham Maslow famously posited, once concerns of physiology and safety have been met, then social and self-esteem requirements are next up before attaining self-actualisation. So, a good jacket won’t just keep you warm, it will tell you where you belong – and who you are. After all, to know your outerwear is to know your inner self. So, choose your layer and your player.

01. The bomber jacket

Without stepping too hard on the toes of the aviator jacket below, the origins of the bomber jacket can be traced back to the MA-1 flight jacket. Introduced to the US Air Force in the 1950s to meet the needs of jet pilots, it saw the embrace of another technological shift: the advancement of synthetic fibres. Lightweight yet warm, it’s a simple piece that was quickly adapted for civilian use and became part of the uniform for punks and skinheads, as well as service crew. All of which means that the bomber is one of the most versatile items of outerwear going and everyone has their own take on it. Styling is simple – shrug it on over a classic white tee or a cashmere knit and add your favourite jeans and sneakers.

02. The aviator jacket

The bulkier forebear of the bomber, the aviator dates back to the early days of aviation, later refined as the iconic G-1 jacket. It’s the stuff of derring-do and Top Gun and should always be worn heroically, even on terra firma. Set your instruments towards leather and pop an oversized shearling-trimmed collar. A pair of sunglasses wouldn’t hurt – aviators, of course.

03. The down jacket

As MIA put it: where were you in ’92? Because as much as the down jacket recalls the innovative groundwork of chemists and mountaineers earlier in the 20th century, it was its adoption by the ravers towards its tail end that gave this coat its cultural clout. Have this in mind when sporting yours. Think streetwear, not base camp – keep yours grounded with jeans and sneakers and stick to the looser proportions of the jacket. Go for elevated, in a figurative sense at least.

04. The fleece jacket

Photograph by Skwad Photography/blaublut-edition.com

Photograph by Mattia Arioli/launchmetrics.com/spotlight

As with down jackets, the fleece took synthetic materials into the natural environment and has long been favoured by hikers for providing quick-drying insulation. Originally designed to mimic wool, modern fabrications often surpass the source material. The plot twist we perhaps didn’t see coming is the fashion set putting their weight behind it. Key to fleece’s success is that it lends itself to bright colours and playful patterns. It can be the main-character piece that will add texture to any outfit. So, throw caution to the wind – it can fend that off, after all – and go for clashing colours, or pull out one shade for a tonal ensemble.

05. The varsity jacket

If Grease is to be believed – and who are we to doubt the highest-grossing film of 1978? – then all it takes to convert a motorbike-riding tearaway into a preppy jock is a varsity jacket. Although to really pull off the look, you might want to get a bit more involved in life on campus. Lean into the Ivy League cues with a baseball cap, chinos and vintage-style sneakers. Make like the college athletics team and run with it. Just keep the rest of your outfit pared back and let your jacket do the talking. And, in the case of the letterman style, say it with your chest.

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