How American Modernism Inspired Mr P.’s Latest Collection

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How American Modernism Inspired Mr P.’s Latest Collection

Words by Fedora Abu | Photography by Mr Isaac Marley Morgan | Styling by Mr Olie Arnold

25 November 2021

Each season, as the team behind Mr P. embark upon creating the next collection of contemporary menswear, a series of words and images that will set the tone are pinned to the mood board. For AW21, the mot du jour was American modernism – and in particular the revolutionary work of Group f/64.

For those in need of an art-history refresher, f/64 is not, as it happens, a Battleships move, but rather refers to a pioneering California-based collective of photographers in the early to mid-20th century. Comprised of the likes of Mr Ansel Adams, Ms Imogen Cunningham and Mr Edward Weston, the gang borrowed its name from the small lens aperture that produced ultra-focused images, ie, their signature.

“Each season we look at a period of time which resonates with the brand identity,” says MR PORTER Buyer Ms Elizabeth Rae. “In the instance of f/64, they promoted the idea of new modernist aesthetic, which really spoke to us in terms of how our guy dresses and what he is interested in.”

Of course, fashion borrowing from the visual arts is not exactly novel – although in recent years this has often taken the shape of graphic T-shirts and accessories emblazoned with prints that have been licensed out for a hefty fee. The latest Mr P. collection, however, wears it references a little more lightly, with suede jackets, overshirts and knitwear in deep hues that evoke the paintings of Ms Georgia O’Keeffe and the prints of Ms Anni Albers.

But perhaps most surprisingly, the modernist art influence can be felt most keenly not in how the garments look but how they feel. The majesty of the natural world was a recurring thread throughout the era, and thus it made sense for the Mr P. collection to feature conscious fabrics such as mulesing-free merino wool and organic cotton.

According to Rae, works by Adams of the national parks were considered so breathtaking that they led to a handful of them being declared conservation areas. Alas, what more fitting sartorial tribute to him and his contemporaries than to create pieces that protect the environment they captured so strikingly?

To find out more about the inspiration behind the Mr P. brand, head over to its newly relaunched Instagram account @mrp.

Modernist classics