Once reserved for city bankers and politicians, the suit has undergone many evolutions. But this season, colour wasn’t just an accent, it was the main character. Whether it was pastel blue or green, dusty lilac or coral, tailoring has officially broken up with the greyscale. While the structure and cut remain familiar, the message feels different. There was a sense of self-expression woven into the suits. Instead of demanding authority, they offer individuality.

Once relegated to gym floors and undershirt status, tank tops held their own as a sleek partner to tailoring. Which makes sense, given the heat. By replacing a traditional shirt or button-down with something as minimal and casual as a ribbed tank or a cotton crewneck tee, the look becomes less about control and more about confidence. Plus, there’s an element of effortless 1990s nostalgia.

There’s something undeniably cinematic about a man wearing a neckerchief. Whether it’s a whisper to French New Wave or Fellini-lensed classics, the return of this timeless accessory feels intentional. At Pitti, the handkerchief wasn’t loud or overstated. Instead, it was tied nonchalantly around the neck, sometimes barely visible, sometimes in rich patterns that elevated the simplest white shirt. In a fashion climate increasingly obsessed with performance, the neckerchief seems to resist. It doesn’t serve a function – and maybe that’s the point. It asks: can style just be for the sake of beauty?

If there’s one item that captured the evolving role of accessories in menswear, it was the man bag in every conceivable form. Leather clutches, oversized canvas totes, sporty crossbodies, mini briefcases, bucket bags... Some were structured and formal, others soft and utilitarian. But nearly all were worn as more than just holders of personal items. They acted as symbols of taste and utility. And in an ecosystem where gender boundaries are increasingly blurred, the man bag continues to challenge old constructs.

The tailored short is not new, but at Pitti this season, it took on a more mature, refined shape. Cut with the same intention as a trouser – creased, cuffed, sometimes pleated – these shorts were seen paired with loafers, blazers and even ties. It opens a broader conversation around practicality and polish. In a post-pandemic world where comfort has become a baseline, this trend feels like a reconciliation. The desire to look dressed without sacrificing ease. It’s also emblematic of a wider shift in menswear where tradition is no longer absolute, but adaptable.