THE JOURNAL
“It’s not a fleece,” says “damp cloth” undergraduate Jack, played by Dylan Llewellyn, in the opening episode of the Channel 4 series Big Boys. Over the course of three seasons, the award-winning comedy show, set in the 2010s on a university campus on the outskirts of London, deftly deals with some very serious issues – growing up, coming out, loss, depression, suicide. But one it tiptoes around is how to get away with a form of outerwear that, back then at least, was more commonly associated with trainspotters. (“It was a fleece,” the narrator confirms. “They weren’t trendy in 2013, whereas nowadays everyone is wearing them.”)
First developed more than 40 years ago as a quick-drying alternative to actual fleece – as in sheep’s wool – fleece jackets soon became a go-to for hikers and their like. Light, cosy and easy to pack down, the fabric became attractive to outdoors types because it was also a doddle to wash. Not to mention it could be produced using recycled materials and dyed in a fantastic array of patterns and colours.
Perhaps more miraculous than this fabric itself, though, is how the fleece has, in recent years, gained traction way beyond trekking holidays in the Lake District. “Fleece has gone from ‘dad walking the dog’ to fashion-week front row,” says Rachel O-Williams, Assistant Personal Shopper at MR PORTER. She points to technical and performance gear being adopted as street-style fixtures “under the banner of Gorpcore” to explain this rise. “Fleece followed the same trajectory,” she says.
But with this second life comes a new set of expectations. “What people wanted wasn’t the nostalgic, logo-heavy versions of the past, but something cleaner, more versatile and muted,” O-Williams says of the fleece. “Pieces that could sit as easily under a tailored coat as they could over a pair of hiking trousers. Post-Covid, that demand only sharpened. Comfort became non-negotiable, but so did versatility. Today’s fleece is expected to do double duty. Good enough for a weekend hike but polished enough for the office on Monday. That shift is exactly why every luxury house has tried its hand at reimagining it.”
“You could see fleeces as the new hoodie,” says Lauren Cochrane, senior fashion writer for The Guardian and author of The Ten. “They’re now such a staple, I think there’s an argument you could wear them with anything, anywhere. Well, maybe not a wedding…”
Don’t be left out in the cold. To fully orientate yourself in the ways of the fleece 2.0, read our guide below. Only, leave the map, compass and Thermos flask at home.
01. Meet your material needs first
“What’s drawn designers to fleece is the same thing that’s always attracted fashion to workwear, tailoring or sportswear: utility,” says O-Williams. “Of course, in luxury, it always comes back to materials. While the original fleece was spun from polyester, labels such as Loro Piana have elevated it beyond recognition. Its shell-trimmed cashmere and silk-blend version doesn’t just keep you warm, it feels like wearing a cloud. A fleece in cashmere or a wool blend immediately pushes it into high-fashion territory, giving the piece a refined edge you won’t find on the trail.”
02. Embrace colour (or don’t)
Given that fleeces often come in a rainbow of bright tones, you could take this opportunity to add a pop of colour to your arsenal. But you also don’t have to.
“Some fleeces are so discreet that they can be worn as a neutral,” Cochrane says. “But for the more colourful one, go full Seth Rogen and wear with other colours and patterns. That’s totally allowed now.”
“Simple, graphic patterns like checks, stripes, or tonal prints are usually the safest bet for adding interest without overwhelming the look,” says O-Williams. “The trick is balance. Let your fleece do the talking, while the rest of your outfit plays the supporting role.”
For those who prefer to keep their inner child and outerwear very separate, “low-key staples look good, as do other items in a similar shade,” Cochrane says. “Because of the texture of the fleece, it will bring a quiet impact.”
03. Go big or go home
“Fit is everything with a fleece,” O-Williams says. “The size you choose really sets the tone. If you’re aiming for that relaxed, street-style edge, then oversized works best, treating the fleece like a coat – it pairs nicely with looser trousers and chunkier footwear, giving off that laid-back, effortless energy.
“If you’re looking for something semi-formal, stick to your true size. A neater cut keeps it clean enough to layer under tailored outerwear without bulking things out. Let your layering happen outwardly – think fleece first, then a structured overcoat or jacket on top so the silhouette stays streamlined.”
“I would definitely recommend sizing up,” Cochrane says. “Or going for a fit that’s a bit bigger. A tight fleece is not a good look.”
04. Don’t forget your trousers
“Fleece is surprisingly versatile when it comes to trousers,” O-Williams says. “It just depends on the setting. In the office, sharpen things up by wearing a fleece under a navy topcoat with tailored trousers. Think of it as your secret weapon for making tailoring feel less stiff. At the weekend, a colourful fleece works brilliantly with relaxed chinos, corduroys or cargo trousers. For something in between, try straight-leg dark denim. The rule of thumb? Keep the proportions in mind.”
Cochrane suggests wearing your fleece with “wider jeans, parachute-type trousers. Cords work,” she agrees. “Maybe not high-waisted, wide-leg trousers. They would clash a bit.”
“Because fleece already carries volume, pairing it with skinny fits can throw things off balance,” O-Williams says. “Opt instead for straight-leg or relaxed trousers that echo the ease of the fleece. That way, the silhouette feels cohesive and grown-up.”
05. Tone down the Gorpcore
“If you’d rather not lean fully into ‘traversing the Alps’, there are a few easy ways to shift the mood,” O-Williams says. “Footwear is the quickest fix. Swap technical boots for sleek tonal sneakers, or even a chunkier, modern loafer that feels more city than summit.”
“I would only suggest wearing other hiking gear if you have the pastime to back it up,” Cochrane says. “I actually think [a fleece] would look quite stylish with a suit. It’s fun to play with contrast here, rather than go for the cosplay of full Gorpcore.”