The Franco-Portuguese film director takes us on a tour of his adopted hometown, Lisbon.

Mr Ruben Alves is chronically indecisive. “I hate choosing,” he says. “I’d just rather not do it.” When it came to making the biggest decision of his life – to leave Paris for Lisbon – he thought, “Why choose? It’s only two hours on the plane. Why can’t I live in both?” And so he did.

Born in France to Portuguese parents, Mr Alves, 37, grew up among the Luso-French community that left their homeland in search of jobs during the economic uncertainty of the 1960s and 1970s. While living in Paris, he would spend his holidays and Christmases in Lisbon visiting his extended family.

He soon fell in love with the city, its energy and authenticity. “In Lisbon, you don’t really need to go to the cinema, because the movies are happening on the streets, in the cafés, the tascas,” he says. “When you go for a coffee in Paris, everyone is stressed, everyone is drinking their coffee as fast as they can. In Lisbon, a coffee is a moment to stop and talk. To have a human interaction. It’s when life happens.”

About 10 years ago, Mr Alves decided to purchase a flat in the Bairro Alto neighbourhood of Lisbon, one of the hilliest areas of the city with cobbled streets and crumbling townhouses. Inspired by his dramatic new surroundings, and the strange feeling of being an expatriate in a country to which he was so intrinsically linked, he penned a script that eventually evolved into his debut film.

“Originally, it was about French people expatriated in Portugal,” he says. “But when I delivered the script to my producers, they told me, ‘Look, it’s good, but aren’t you doing this the wrong way round? Wouldn’t it be a greater honour to your parents if you made this movie about Portuguese people in France instead?’” Duly altered, the script became 2013’s The Gilded Cage, a sleeper hit that made Mr Alves’ name as a director in both France and Portugal.

It isn’t hard to see why he was so seduced by Lisbon. Its dusty terracotta-pink and yolky yellow buildings with intricate, colourful tiles all add to the charm of the faded splendour of an imperial capital that once ruled the seas from Asia to Africa and South America. But it’s also a vibrant tech hub with bustling restaurants, independent art galleries and a vibrant nightlife.

We followed Mr Alves for a week as he shared his style diary and introduced us to the city – OK, one of the cities – he calls home.

The Late Birds, Bairro Alto

“This guesthouse is owned by a friend of mine, Carlos Ruivo. He’s of Portuguese descent, but spent most of his life in Paris, so we share a common background. The Late Birds is in the heart of the Bairro Alto district, just a few streets away from where I live, so I find myself coming here all the time. There isn’t much of a brunch culture in Lisbon, and that was one of the things that Carlos set out to achieve when he opened this place in 2015. I’ll stop by for brunch at the weekend, or during the week just for a coffee and to take a dip in the pool. These swim shorts from Incotex caught my eye because of the vibrancy of the print. It’s a similar colour to the terracotta you get in Alentejo, a region in southern Portugal that’s kind of like our version of Tuscany. And the geometric pattern reminds me of azulejo, traditional Portuguese tiling.”

Underdogs Gallery, Marvila

“Underdogs Gallery is off the beaten path, in the creative district of Marvila. It’s a project of a friend of mine, Alexandro Farto, a street artist who goes by the name of Vhils. I collaborated with him recently on a tribute to Amália Rodrigues, a legendary Portuguese singer who was known as the Queen of Fado. She’s like the Edith Piaf of Portugal. Fado is a type of music that originated here, in Lisbon. It’s the music of the streets, and we wanted to celebrate that, so Vhils created a mural in traditional Portuguese calçada, the same mosaic-style paving that you see all over the city’s streets. The clothes that I wore here were a tribute to my Parisian roots, with brands such as A.P.C. and Ami. It's a minimal look, perfect for every day, with a focus on fabric and texture. I’m really drawn to simple, tactile things. A good T-shirt with a little point of difference has a huge impact on an outfit.”

Chapelaria Azevedo Rua Lda, Rossio Square

“This chapelaria is on the corner of one of Lisbon’s oldest squares. It’s been open since 1886. Modern life can seem so fast-paced at times, but after spending half an hour in a shop like this, I immediately feel relaxed. It reminds me that certain things don’t change. The city is still full of these little traditional shops and tasca bars. It’s a place of huge variety, where the old sits right next to the new. The best cities have this quality, in my opinion. It’s just like a good dinner party; it’s all about getting the right mix. Lisbon was built on seven hills. You’re either going up or going down, so it pays to wear light, breezy clothes, like this slub linen suit from Brunello Cucinelli. I love the feeling of going sock free, and in Portugal, espadrilles are an obvious choice. I grew up seeing all of my uncles wearing them, so I find it quite amusing to watch them come back into fashion.”

Ponto Final, Almada

“The waterfront of Almada, just across the River Tagus, is the best place to take in all of Lisbon. The docks are full of beautiful derelict warehouses. I’d love to convert one of them into a small boutique hotel one day, or a complex of artists’ studios. My perfect evening consists of taking a ferry over the river to Cacilhas just as the sun’s beginning to set. It’s about a 10-minute walk from there to Ponto Final, a traditional seafood restaurant with bright yellow doors and tables. Later in the evening, when it’s completely dark, you can see all of Lisbon lit up from across the river. I feel completely at peace here. These dark-blue trousers offer something a little more formal for the evening, but my look is still casual, with a lot of linen. If I’m going to a premiere or a party later in the night, I’ll dress up a little more.”

Park, Bairro Alto

“Park is a bar on top of a car park in Bairro Alto, where I live. It represents the new Lisbon, a modern aesthetic in the middle of this ancient part of town. It’s got great music and, because of the location, it provides a beautiful vantage point over Lisbon’s rooftops. It’s so near to my flat that I’ll often come here in the afternoon to do some work, answer some emails and have a burger. Later, as Friday afternoon turns into Friday evening and the sun starts to go down, it transforms into the perfect place for an aperitif with friends. Style-wise, I’ll keep it casual. These Dries Van Noten trousers in breezy linen are ideal for summer, and Converse All Stars are like a part of the Lisbon uniform. I remember leaving Paris years ago, coming to Lisbon and thinking, ‘Why is everyone still wearing All Stars?’ I realise now that the most stylish person isn’t the one following trends, but the one most comfortable in his clothes.”