What does it mean, in 2019, to dress like a gentleman? Images of Mr Beau Brummel in a top hat while wielding a walking cane might have set the tone a couple of centuries ago, and more recently the suit and tie may have had its day. But where, in the current state of menswear, are we now?

In an increasingly global, digital world where tech CEOs wear hoodies and streetwear dominates the youth market, a smartly turned-out style that fits the times and still feels “gentlemanly” is perhaps a hard thing to pin down. Still, it’s something that Mr Yasuto Kamoshita, the man behind eponymous brand Camoshita, is particularly talented at. In his most recent venture, which is called “Between”, the Japanese designer has teamed up the venerated Vitale Barberis Canonico – an Italian mill that was established in 1663 – to create a collection of clothing that takes that idea of classic clothing and distils the essence of their design into something that feels unmistakably of the moment.

“[Classic clothing] has become conservative over time, and I think that’s boring,” says Mr Kamoshita. “In the past, Oscar Wilde, for example, had an impact on banal menswear with innovative attire. The same is true for Edward VIII. In order to avoid my favorite classics going obsolete, I always want to incorporate a new sense and create a style that fits the times.”

In practise, this means expertly cut trousers that are refreshingly relaxed; see in particular the houndstooth woollen pair, as well as the matching jacket, or the wrap wool coat with a belt that’s crafted from exclusive fabric he created from scratch at the mill – the clothes are sophisticated but not too serious. It’s a collection that’s heavy on the grey, but it works and manages to hit that evasive sweet spot that’s chilled out but still smart. In other words, this is the kind of thing that works with both formal shoes or sneakers, depending on your preference.

As the name of the collection suggests, that elegantly casual intersection is perhaps the “between” that Mr Kamoshita was aiming for. “It’s about being between classic and formal and casual or informal. I think keeping the balance between these two diverse elements can be cool nowadays,” explains Mr Kamoshita.

As well as the exclusive fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico, the collection was crafted in collaboration with Savile Row tailors Anderson & Sheppard, and is perhaps the perfect harmony of Italian, Japanese and English sensibility. What other three nations are more famous for their attention to detail when it comes to clothes-making?

“Both Anderson & Sheppard and Vitale Barberis Canonico have the combination of business sense and aesthetic values that preserve the good taste inherited through their long history,” says Mr Kamoshita. “But they can also look to the future, by changing what has to be changed and keeping what has to be kept.” Welcome to the wardrobe of the modern gentleman.