THE JOURNAL
New York has got a reputation. Fast paced and direct to the point of brusque. It is known for its hard edges. And against this colourful – in all senses of the word – setting, Mr P.’s new AW26 collection can’t help but stand out. “It has gotten softer this season,” says Emily Grieves, Design Manager at Mr P. “That was a key part of it – the dropped shoulders and softer fabrics.”
While our latest pieces hold their own in the city that never sleeps, where they were shot for our new campaign, the collection was inspired by London. Specifically, the clique of hedonistic artists who, in the 1950s, frequented the city’s bohemian Soho district (the name was only reappropriated by the homonymous New York neighbourhood in 1962). For a deeper dive into our mood board, click here.
Grieves says the idea with the collection was to capture the “haziness” of this era, of the likes of Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud and Frank Auerbach swaggering between drinking dens, their clothes flecked with paint. “[It] comes through in relaxed tailoring, softer proportions,” she says. “The palette and textures are deliberately understated, with tactile fabrics that add depth and warmth.”
Or, to put it more bluntly, for hard-pressed New Yorkers: “Everything being a bit dishevelled, but in a chic way.”
And while each piece would work in most men’s wardrobes, it really slots in together as a whole. “Easy layers, with an undone edge,” as Grieves puts it. Below, she talks us through the highlights of the new arrivals.
01. The shearling jacket
We say jacket, but the cut is more overshirt. “Very indulgent, isn’t it, to have a shearling shirt,” Grieves says. “Indulgent and luxurious.” This is a standout piece for more reasons than one. The muted but rich brown tone, Grieves notes, is a departure from the blacks that Mr P. is more known for. Then there’s drape. And keen eyes will also note the rounded corners on the patch pockets, a subtle nod to this softer approach.
02. The shearling-trimmed leather blouson
This is a serious piece of kit. “The grain of the leather gives it a raw edginess,” Grieves says. “It’s very heavy. There’s Van Dyke stitching under the placket; the zips are heavy – there’s a lot of weight and substance. It’s got a racking stitch on the cuffs, which is a nice little detail. This is going to be in your wardrobe for a long time and it will only get better with age.”
03. The wool and cashmere-blend sweater
“Mustard is a highlight colour across the collection,” Grieves says. You’ll see it echoed in the car coat and contrast elements in the leather jackets. And as part of the crosshatch weave of this cashmere-blend sweater. (It’s part of the reason why Mr P.’s pieces are so cohesive. “These textured bold stitches are what Mr P. has become known for as well,” Grieves adds.
04. The brushed cashmere sweater
Given that it comes in a vibrant red, this sweater is easy to spot amid both Mr P.’s line-up and our wider Consciously Crafted edit. “This is one of the main places where colour is being used,” Grieves says of this and its bright blue variant. “This is a five-gauge cashmere, with a brushed finish, which is quite on trend at the moment.” Not that it is an ephemeral piece. This is luxurious item at a surprisingly affordable price point that will prove to be a stalwart of your winter wardrobe for years to come.
05. The ribbed wool and cashmere-blend cardigan
Grieves has this chunky shawl-collar cardigan down as something you’d see by an open fireside in an episode of Succession – hopefully without the backstabbing. “It’s slouchy, with that undone feeling,” she says. The cashmere-blend wool accounts for much of this, but its construction also contributes. “The rib structure gives it an expansive softness.”
06. The cotton-blend twill suit jacket and trousers
07. The shearling-lined suede lace-up boots
It doesn’t get sleeker than suede for the cooler months. These boots are crafted using luxury Italian suede, with a plush sheepskin lining for warmth and comfort, all set on a durable Vibram rubber sole. “The result is a more relaxed approach to traditional footwear, without compromising its appearance,” says Kevin Martel, Mr P. shoe designer.
08. The suede Derby shoes
Also crafted in Italy with Italian suede, these brown Derby shoes are a softer take on a traditional silhouette. Its lightweight Vibram rubber soles help take it out of formal territory into something more relaxed and casual. “The Vibram soles are important for these shoes to have the lightweight feeling that is relevant in footwear at the moment,” says Grieves. Their tactile finish also includes a Blake stitch construction and leather insoles.