The genres of outerwear you need to know this season – and how to wear them.

As the white noise of tropical prints, camp-collar shirts and boat shoes gently retire from your Instagram feed as #summerstyle fades into autumn, something with more heft and substance takes its place. The ceremonial Putting On Of The Big Coat is an annual rite of sartorial passage, a decisive moment when we relegate the easy, flyaway dressing in favour of proper winter attire. The coat is the quiet elder statesman of the wardrobe, the one who has to work for his money and marry form with purpose, not just look suitably camera friendly.

And now is the winter coat’s time to shine. First things first: consider which coat tribe you fall into. The idea of a swaddling, heavy-duty, padded number is appealing as arctic blasts descend, but does it serve you well on your underground commute? A sharp, crisp overcoat with upright lapels and strong shoulders might look patrician and business-ready, but take a walk in the park at the weekend and you’ll look like an undercover FBI agent. To help you navigate your way to the perfect coat, we have detailed our favourites for this season, below. The nights are drawing in, it’s true, but your coat should allow you to step out in style.

It doesn’t take a code breaker to guess that the classic overcoat takes its moniker from the idea of wearing it “over” formal tailoring – it evolved in the 18th century and was hallmarked by a slim, close-to-the-body silhouette – which is apparent in its precise, elegant cut. Its distinctive features are notch lapels, a streamlined silhouette and its single-breasted front; it’s a piece that’s decidedly “city” in its sharpness. This version by Calvin Klein 205W39NYC plays with the classic connotations of the overcoat by applying traditional heritage tartan and blowing it up to large-scale proportions; a wardrobe perennial with a dose of style nous.

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The peacoat’s militaristic overtones carry over today in its sense of dynamism. It began life as a Dutch naval uniform designed for bracing winds of the North Sea in the 1800s, with the cropped shape and lean frame allowing ease of movement. That said, it’s undoubtedly ceremonial; like this Brunello Cucinelli cashmere piece, the double-breasted buttons often come with gleaming hardware and the lapel is spread wide for extra presence. The shape is sleek so pair with a lightweight rollneck or T-shirt, and evoke a masculine stance.

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Heavy duty and designed with outdoor pursuits in mind, the padded coat is the rugged, adventurer brother to the more corporate overcoat, a technical piece that’s designed with performance in mind, whether it’s a muddy English country tromp or something requiring more serious kit. This vibrant version by sophisticated outerwear specialists Moncler is a masterclass in combining utility with flair; the technical elements – shell fabric, down quilting – are all there alongside a dash of style nous.

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The tufted stuff is a winter perennial, thanks to its warmth and sense of blanket-like cosiness, with the sheepskin nodding to a certain Left Bank, 1970s loucheness. Not for nothing did style icon Mr Alain Delon fall for its cosetting charms. This version by Belstaff contrasts chunky, heavy leather – in rich latte tones – with the softness of the shearling collar, maintaining a hint of biker masculinity despite the teddy-bear trim.

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As menswear continues to “loosen up” with blousy shapes and soft-structure tailoring, the rolled shoulder coat has come into its own. It’s effectively an overcoat with the stuffing taken out, maintaining a fluid, soft-structure silhouette. The robe-like cut also lends a raffish air; less upright than the proper, solid overcoat and more free and easy. This cashmere blend version by Acne Studios – low key, effortless but considered – alludes to the brand’s minimalist, Scandi credentials.

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