The Kingsman Collection

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The Kingsman Collection

Words by Mr Toby Bateman | Photography by Mr Matteo Montanari | Styling by Mr Bohan Qiu

13 January 2015

Introducing the new brand for the modern gentleman – available only on MR PORTER.

Whether we like to admit it or not, films have affected the way all of us dress. Your subconscious may well have taken note of the chino/ sneaker combination Mr Steve McQueen wore on and off set while filming Bullitt, or Sir Sean Connery’s elegant pale-grey suits and dark, knitted ties in his Bond era – I would readily admit to having emulated both. We see the potential on someone we admire, on a big lit-up screen, and decide it’s worth a try. The truth is, as men, we are simply more comfortable borrowing the style of a talented actor than the mode of an insipid-looking model, who probably weighs less than the coat he’s been paid to wear.

For all these reasons, when Mr Matthew Vaughn came to us with the script for Kingsman: The Secret Service, we jumped at the chance to work with him and costume designer Ms Arianne Phillips on a first-of-its-kind “costume to collection”. Our aim was to ensure the clothes in the film not only served their part for the characters of the story, but also created a unique collection that really stood out from the norm. To achieve this, we focused on reinventing the quintessential Savile Row double-breasted suit to be more contemporary and sleek in its cut, while still staying true to its traditional origins. With this in mind, we cut the armhole higher, the sleeve slimmer, slightly shortened the length of the jacket, kept the lapel broad, cut the trousers slim and straight; we also applied these characteristics of “silhouette” to the sports jackets and the overcoats. 

The next stage of the process involved us putting a dream team of British heritage brands together to contribute towards the finishing touches of this Kingsman wardrobe and ultimately create a 60-piece collection. The results are: customised watches from Bremont, Goodyear-welted shoes from George Cleverley, shirts, pyjamas and gowns from Turnbull & Asser, grenadine silk ties from Drake’s, waxed cotton jackets from Mackintosh, Swaine Adeney Brigg umbrellas  and briefcases, Lock & Co hats, Deakin & Francis cufflinks and Conway Stewart pens.

The Kingsman collection is designed to cater to the needs of the modern man – whether his mission takes him to such hotbeds of peril as the office or entertaining a date at home (dressing gown and velvet slippers at the ready). As such, it incorporates a range of fine tailoring, which is made in England using traditional cloths woven by the best British mills. It also includes a few pieces more suitable for the field (even if the field equals running errands on a Saturday), such as a waxed-cotton jacket made by Mackintosh. Here, we present some of the collection’s key pieces.

KINGSMAN DOUBLE-BREASTED WOOL SUIT In a regal plaid fit for a new generation, this suit brings double breasted back to the fore with high armholes and a slim back ensuring a modern silhouette.

KINGSMAN SINGLE-BREASTED BRUSHED WOOL CHECK BLAZER This notch-lapel blazer updates an eminently British pattern with its subtle colour scheme and tactile brushed wool fabric.

KINGSMAN VELVET SMOKING JACKET WITH SILK GROSGRAIN SHAWL COLLAR Sleek but never stuffy – this is the only way to approach formal attire. With a satin shawl lapel this opulent navy velvet jacket has all bases covered.

KINGSMAN DOUBLE-BREASTED HERRINGBONE CASHMERE-BLEND OVERCOAT A Kingsman always dresses the part, and this navy overcoat is handcrafted in England from wool spun in Britain by Holland & Sherry mills.

KINGSMAN SINGLE-BREASTED PEAK-LAPEL WOOL-FLANNEL OVERCOAT Constructed using wool-flannel from the esteemed British cloth manufacturer Fox Brothers in Somerset, you can be assured of this piece’s impeccable heritage.

KINGSMAN BLACK WATCH WAXED COTTON FIELD JACKET WITH LEATHER TRIMS Made in the UK by Mackintosh, this waterproof waxed cotton and oiled leather field jacket will stay ruggedly handsome even when the weather has other ideas.

KINGSMAN GEELONG WOOL MILITARY SWEATER WITH SUEDE SHOULDER PATCHES Recalling the rugged’n’ready toughness of vintage army apparel, this sweater is a marriage of ribbed wool and suede shoulder panels, made by Welsh knitwear manufacturer Corgi.

MR PORTER has assembled a dream team of British heritage brands to create the Kingsman collection. From timepieces to cufflinks, eyewear to writing instruments, each name represents nothing less than the pinnacle of its craft – and the result is a collection worthy of any Kingsman.

KINGSMAN BY BREMONT Founded by British brothers Messrs Nick and Giles English, Bremont creates first-class watches inspired by aviation timepieces. Three models have been made for Kingsman: a rose-gold watch complete with alligator-leather strap, a steel watch and an all-black stealth model. All are assembled by hand in the UK.

KINGSMAN BY CUTLER & GROSS Messrs Graham Cutler and Tony Gross have been bringing originality and design flair to sunglasses and optical glasses alike for more than 40 years. The bold tortoiseshell frames they have crafted for the collection are standard-issue eyewear for all Kingsman agents.

SWAINE ADENEY BRIGG The history of leather goods company Swaine Adeney goes back some 250 years. Whatever you’re carrying – whether it’s classified documents or the morning papers – this briefcase from the Royal Warrant holder will ensure that it gets there safely and in style.

GEORGE CLEVERLEY With a workshop on Piccadilly's Royal Arcade, George Cleverley represents the best of British style and craftsmanship. Everyone from Sir Winston Churchill to Mr Alexander McQueen has owned a pair of Goodyear-welted George Cleverley shoes, making them the obvious choice for Kingsman.

CONWAY STEWART The pen is mightier than the sword, and many a conflict has been avoided through a few well-chosen words. The Kingsman pen is crafted by Conway Stewart, a company that has been serving the needs of men of letters for over a century from Plymouth in  South West England.

DEAKIN & FRANCIS No wardrobe is complete without its finishing touches, and providing that for Kingsman is Deakin & Francis, a family-run jeweller and silversmith in England’s Midlands with a history going back to 1786. This pair of rose-gold cufflinks provides an elegant finish to a formal evening outfit.

DRAKE’S Drake’s is the biggest independent producer of handmade ties in England, revered for its quality and attention to detail. The brand has created five pocket squares, eight ties and one bow tie for the Kingsman collection, all produced by hand on Haberdasher Street in East London.

TURNBULL & ASSER Jermyn Street shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser has been dressing some of the world’s most influential men since 1885. The Kingsman wardrobe comprises three shirts in cotton poplin, three in Oxford cloth and one dress shirt, designed to be worn with studs.

MACKINTOSH The legendary Scottish raincoat company Mackintosh is the original producer of waterproof coats, with more than 180 years’ experience in keeping its customers dry. It has made a waxed-cotton and oiled-leather field jacket in Black Watch tartan for the Kingsman collection.

CORGI A fourth-generation family company based in South Wales, Corgi has a global reputation for quality knitwear, and acts as supplier for many of the world’s best brands. It has made a cashmere cardigan for the Kingsman collection, as well as the Merlin sweater.