Our favourite footwear for AW17.

Much as we love sneakers, and their increasing acceptability for men over the age of 18, we feel it’s our responsibility to remind you that they won’t do all the time. No, respectable grown-ups need respectable shoes, not just for formal occasions but for everyday use. And this is where a solid pair of Derbies comes into play. The Derby, in case you’re not entirely familiar with the terminology, is a type of leather shoe in which the shoelace eyelets are sewn on top of the vamp (the piece of leather that covers your toes). In comparison to its more formal cousin, the Oxford (in which the eyelets are sewn under the vamp, for a smoother finish), the Derby therefore has a slightly more sturdy and rugged feel. This, in our opinion, makes it all the more versatile. A good pair of Derbies will work as well with a suit as they will with a pair of jeans. They’re serious shoes, but not too serious.

We say all this now because for AW17, the Derbies are looking particularly good – and for good, read “chunky”. With their thick soles and exaggerated proportions, they even feel – dare we say it – a little bit rebellious. Scroll down for our favourite styles this week, and how to wear them.

The lug sole on these Derbies from Jil Sander not only makes them that little bit less slippery, but gives them a pleasingly hardy feel. They also demonstrate the fact that black shoes don’t always have to be boring. The nubuck leather in which they are rendered has a wonderful depth of colour, thanks to its brushed, slightly matt surface. You can bring it out by wearing them with different shades of grey. Start with this charcoal blazer from Prada.

Maybe you’re not quite ready to let the summer go. Fair enough. It is only August. In this case, though, you might want to opt for a pair of Derbies such as these examples from AMI, which come with a lightweight, bouncy crepe sole and a sandy-coloured suede upper. Wear them with some tapered trousers from Folk. Their garment-dyed olive colour will make for a wonderfully low-key late-summer palette.

Tired of your traditional lace-ups? Then witness how far and wide the Derby can travel, in terms of aesthetic, via this intriguingly schoolboyish pair from Belgian designer Dries Van Noten. With double-stitched uppers, a split-toe construction and a rubber lug sole, these shoes were made not just for walking, but stomping. Dress them down with a pair of stonewashed jeans from Gucci.

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