Some of the most exciting cooking in Berlin is produced in this rough and ready but polished and slick Neukölln restaurant. The interior looks a bit nailed together and the staff are drawn from the hip end of the spectrum, but the food is gutsy, modern and uncompromising – bone marrow with snails and sauerkraut, for instance, or the signature, regularly changing beef tartare (a must-try). Bold cocktails and natural wines complete the picture.