From the same owners as the perpetually packed-out Bao is this less casual, broader-in-scope but equally crowd pleasing spot, which brings the unique cookery of Taiwan to a languid Soho room with the feel of a colonial railway waiting room. That means lamb sweetbreads with fermented greens, or beef tendon with Sichuan pepper, or short rib and bone marrow pancake. Adventurous for Western tastes, yes, but every dish is an authentic and absorbing entry to an exciting cuisine.

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