Sod the chablis. Boo to Bollinger. We’re thinking outside the box this year with our celebratory drinking, so we asked expert Mr Brodie Meah, co-owner of Top Cuvée, our current favourite London wine den, to take us on a trip around Europe and suggest a few bottles that are as interesting as they are inexpensive. He’s offered up his preferred food pairings, but you are very welcome to switch in your own accompaniment – which could, of course, be another bottle. After the year we’ve all had, feel free to enjoy irresponsibly.

Ardèche, France_ (_syrah), £28

Drink with: roast mallard with celeriac and elderberries

“Sylvain Bock’s wines are always very precise and well put together despite his totally natural approach, both in the cellar and the vineyard. This light syrah pairs perfectly with the flavour of roasted duck and has just the right amount of soft tannin that, combined with the piquant elderberries, cuts through a rich celeriac purée.”

Pfalz, Germany (pinot blanc), £29

Drink with: lemon sole, brown butter and sea aster

“The distinctive acidity of pinot blanc is always welcome alongside fatty dishes. The brothers behind Weingut Brand are young winemakers based in the Pfalz region of Germany, making some really vibrant ‘drinking’ wines. They always add some of the lees [dead yeast cells left over from the fermentation process] to their bottlings, so shake and wait before drinking to replicate the flavour of tasting from a cellar barrel.”

_Veneto, Italy __(_cabernet franc), £15

_Drink with: mince pies and clotted cream _

“Cab franc is not a variety often seen in Italy, but this classic vino da tavola also mixes in a number of native grape varieties to produce a light red bursting with energy and often showing a very light spritz. Crown capped and designed to drink in one sitting, it’s an unrivalled companion to a full tray of mince pies and a Christmas TV marathon.”

Catalunya, Spain_ (_xarel·lo/parellada), £19

Drink with: pumpkin soup, kale and pumpkin seed oil

“Ditch the industrial champagne for this no-sulphur pétillant naturel. The bubbles are a result of the wine being bottled with a little bit of residual sugar and allowed to ferment to dryness. Good to drink alongside a restorative soup of seasonal veg, this particular wine has been disgorged (Google it), so is clear and has little sediment.”

Jura, France (chardonnay), £39

Drink with: Cornish Kern with apple chutney

“The oxidative whites of the Jura and Comté, the famous cheese from the same region is a classic pairing. I’ve kept it local with Cornish Kern, a hard cow’s milk cheese made using alpine cultures. Macvin is made by adding about a third grape marc (pomace) to freshly pressed grape juice and aged for seven years.”

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