Order the cuttlefish bolognese.
Housed in a high-ceilinged, terrazzo-floored premises with big windows, it looks as good as the food tastes. There is a tasting menu or an à la carte, which changes with the season. We are particular fans of the steamed asparagus with goat’s butter sauce and the 40-day-aged chop, which we’d like to eat every day if we could. Dinner, lunch, tasting or à la carte – this a diamond amid zirconia.