THE JOURNAL
For those who aren’t entrenched in the world of menswear, the medieval hamlet of Solomeo in central Italy – a lesser-known beauty spot in a country with no shortage of picturesque towns and villages – likely flies under the radar. For those who are, however, it instantly invokes just one name: Brunello Cucinelli.
This quaint pocket of Perugia in the region of Umbria is the hometown of Italy’s godfather of pared-back luxury. And, since 1978, it’s been the base of his namesake brand. The success of Brunello Cucinelli has allowed the designer to breathe new life into the area, restore many of its landmarks and transform it into a thriving hub of world-class craftsmanship.
Its factories are based here, employing many of the village’s 400 inhabitants. So, too, is Cucinelli’s villa and studio. It even houses a tailoring academy that trains up the next generation of makers. Over the past 40 years, Cucinelli’s guardianship of Solomeo has come to embody the pride in locality that’s intrinsic to Italian culture – and which makes the country’s clothes-making traditions so wonderfully varied from region to region.
Still, Brunello Cucinelli has never been insular, but always outward-facing. Much like its clients are cosmopolitan men of taste who span the globe, the creative minds in-house have long cast their eyes further afield for design inspiration and to hunt down the finest fabrics.
This season in particular, the label has ventured more than 8,000 kilometres away from its home to the Himalayas to design a new exclusive capsule, in collaboration with MR PORTER. Named the Solomeo Expedition, this collection remains rooted in the pared-back design and craftsmanship-forward approach that underpins the Brunello Cucinelli brand. It is made, as always, in its Solomeo factories, but it draws inspiration from the mountainous expanse that spans 2,500 kilometres of south Asia for its rich colours, textures (yes, lots of cashmere) and cultural heritage.
Frankly, it’s not much surprise that anyone who has witnessed the exquisite natural beauty of the Himalayas would want to bottle up its magic. The vivid indigoes of the skies along with the earthy browns and greys and snowy whites form the central palette of this collection and have been translated into an array of timeless garments.
“The capsule collection also captures the intrepid spirit of the outdoorsman and the thrill of mountaineering itself”
In anticipation of the winter months, and in keeping with the chill of the mountains, the lineup is all about warmth. Cosy knitwear and outerwear are rendered in the sort of tactile fabrics we look forward to diving into this time of year, from intarsia-knit cardigans and sweaters in cashmere and alpaca to shearling jackets and bonded wool coats.
The capsule collection also captures the intrepid spirit of the outdoorsman and the thrill of mountaineering itself – though in a way that won’t feel too out of place if your winter adventures only consist of commuting between the office, the gym and home.
On the one hand, that means graphic pieces emblazoned with “SOLOMEO EXPEDITION GROUP” – plus the coordinates of Solomeo – that look like they might belong to the world’s most adventurous explorers. On the other, it means practical, ergonomic silhouettes that prioritise comfort and ease, and robust materials that are built to weather the elements, from quilted gilets to cotton-corduroy trousers.
The accessories in particular offer an elevated riff on outdoorsy gear – think cashmere beanies, ribbed wool knee-length socks and multicompartment bags. Meanwhile, a selection of utility boots, sneakers and Derby shoes in waxed and tactile suede and supple nappa leather prove that sturdy, functional footwear can still look pretty handsome.
However, the best-dressed folk know that good style is all about contrast – the yin and yang that makes for layered and visually interesting outfits. That means you’ll also find turtlenecks spun from a silk blend and tailored herringbone blazers that sit comfortably alongside the more outdoorsy wares, lending them a dash of Italian sophistication – in a way only Brunello Cucinelli knows how to do.