THE JOURNAL

Illustration by Calum Heath
We often speak of clothes as “investments”, but do we always treat them as such? Before fast fashion, clothing was appreciated as a craft on par with art, furniture or jewellery. People bought less, but better, and would mend, alter or pass on treasured items over the years. Here at MR PORTER, that way of thinking never went away. In fact, it’s woven into our DNA. And, thankfully, there are signs that the wider world is catching on.
Not that turning to better-made pieces and keeping them in good nick is only good for you and your wardrobe. Research suggests that extending the life of an item of clothing by just nine months can reduce its environmental impact by 20 to 30 per cent. Which, on a global scale, can have a massive impact.
No matter how well constructed your clothing is, signs of wear and tear are inevitable. With something like a leather jacket, that might mean a more lived-in look. But elsewhere in your wardrobe, you could be looking at snagged material, torn seams or – God forbid – moth holes.
The golden rule when it comes to repairs? Take action quickly. This is especially true of knitwear, where damage can lead to further unravelling – which can prove far more complicated to fix in the long run.
Clothes can and should become cherished items that you create a relationship with. And the best examples should improve over time – but not without your help. To that end, we spoke to some industry experts about how they ensure their clothes survive the rough and tumble of life and come out looking better than ever.
01. Denim
“We cherish dry denim because it is a blank canvas upon which you can paint your story,” says Kevin Gelsi, the circular product manager at Nudie Jeans.
“Denim is perhaps one of the most grateful garments in that sense, where the wear, tear and care are allowed to become aesthetic attributes in a successively ever-changing item.”
His advice with jeans? “Wear them, wash them seldom and air them when you want a refreshing feel to them. When you do wash, avoid softeners for stretch denim and do not tumble dry. When they break, repair them and wear them a little longer, repeat several times. And when they are no longer wearable, return them to who you bought them from and have them take responsibility for the leftovers in a circular way.”
02. Suits
“The most important thing with suits, especially with bespoke suits, is to not dry-clean them too often,” says Sean Dixon, the co-founder and managing director of Richard James. “The chemicals can strip the life out of the fabric. Most Savile Row tailors will offer a ‘sponge and press’ service rather than a dry-clean. Find someone who can press the suit properly so that you retain that rich, full shape, especially around the lapels. Also, if you must dry-clean, make sure that you do the jacket and trousers at the same time so that they remain the same colour. Suits need to rest, so never wear your suit for more than two days in a row.”
Dixon also suggests investing in hangers that offer support around the shoulders. “Thin wire hangers destroy the delicate structure of the shoulder,” he says. “And remember: small holes from moths can be repaired with invisible mending.”
03. Knitwear
You might not currently be wearing knitwear, but now is a good time to think about how you store it. “The key thing is to seal your knits in airtight bags or boxes over the summer to avoid moths,” says Jenny Postle-Cope, the senior knitwear designer at Mr P. “If you do get moths, be extremely brutal – air-tight seal or freeze everything.”
“Give your garments a rest between wears,” says Tim Clark, technical director at John Smedley. “After you’ve finished wearing them, the natural spring in the fibre should ensure that it snaps back into shape. A little clothes brush should be all you need to get rid of any surface dust or stains. For small stains, a little cold water should work. For anything stubborn, a little surgical spirit with cold water (around a 3:1 ratio) will make a friendly solvent that you can dab on with a bit of cloth or kitchen towel.”
When it comes to cashmere, Postle-Cope says that pilling is not a sign of poor quality. “It’s unavoidable with this fibre,” she says. “Look after your cashmere by getting a cashmere comb to de-bobble. You can buy specific cashmere soap, too, otherwise wash infrequently in cool water. Personally, I would handwash – you will have more control and can avoid the dreaded shrinkage.”
Another consideration: “It might seem obvious, but keep your knitwear folded not hung to avoid stretching,” Postle-Cope says.
04. Watches
“It is vital to get your watch serviced every four to five years by a professional who has been properly trained and accredited, and who uses accredited tools and original parts from the brand,” says Oliver Pollock, managing director at Luxury Watch Repairs. “It’s comparable to getting your car serviced. It’s fine to send it back to the manufacturer, but because of the sheer volume of watches they receive, it can take a long time.”
Luxury Watch Repairs is accredited by the likes of Breitling and Jaeger-LeCoultre and provides a two-year guarantee for any work it undertakes – look for similar in your service. “The movement in your watch is meticulous, and the parts need to be lubricated to keep it in peak condition and prevent any damage,” Pollock says. “If the oils dry out and one of the parts becomes damaged, this can have a knock-on effect on other components in the watch, which will make it more expensive to repair in the long run.”
Pollock also suggests investing in a watch winder, “which will help keep the watch on time and the movement in order”.
05. Shirts
“Consider the fibre composition and follow the care instructions on the label,” says Lauren Stevenson, senior garment technologist at Mr P. “Some fibres, such as cotton, linen and viscose, can shrink when washed at high temperatures and high spin settings. It’s best to wash on a cooler temperature and gentle cycle. And for formal shirts, make sure to remove any collar stays or cufflinks prior to washing.
“Using detergents with optical whiteners will help keep your whites bright, but will dull dark colours, so selecting the right detergent is key. Wash inside out to prevent the cloth rubbing against the drum and causing abrasion to surface.
“For ironing, take care not to over-press and cause glazing over the seams. It is best practise to iron from the inside. Iron collar and cuffs first, then unbutton and lay flat.
“Lastly, take care not to flatten the collar during storage. It’s best to hang shirts to avoid making creases when folded.”
06. Shoes
How do you make sure your footwear goes the distance? “The best thing you can do is to invest in a good pair of cedar shoes trees,” is Mr P. shoe designer Kevin Martel’s top tip. “Cedar will absorb the moisture from daily wear, which helps preserve the leather lining, reduce odour and returns the shoe to its natural shape as it dries and relaxes.”
Beyond that, “you should rotate your favourites so that your shoes are allowed to rest and dry out from the natural moisture of everyday use,” he adds. “Storing your shoes in cloth or felt shoe bags will protect them from dust and sun exposure.
“There are many good shoe-care products on the market, but Saphir from France is the best if you enjoy the labour of waxing and polishing your shoes. Be careful not to overdo it – too frequent waxing can dry out the leather due to the chemicals in the polish.
“A quick hack: inexpensive, disposable shoe polishing sponges are great for everyday shine and conditioning the leather. They are great for travel as well.”
And as for making your sneakers last longer? “Don’t wear them to the club,” is the official advice.
07. Bags
“Well-made leather bags are designed to be used and with the right care they can last a lifetime,” says Danni Dance, founder of the resell site The Hosta. “Storing them properly makes the biggest difference. Keep bags in their dust bags and lightly padded so they retain their shape – and avoid direct sunlight or humid environments, which can cause fading or distortion. Vegetable tanned leathers absorb oils easily, so handle them with clean dry hands.
“For bags in regular rotation, a gentle clean and condition once or twice a year is enough. Any deeper issues such as scuffs or water marks are best handled by a specialist restorer.”