THE JOURNAL

“Across The Universe And Beyond”, 2018, by Ms Sanitas Pradittasnee. Photograph courtesy of Bangkok Art Biennale 2018
“Bangkok is a city of beautiful chaos,” says Mr Bhanu Inkawat, the founder of Thai lifestyle brand Greyhound. “It combines the exotic with the modern and although it’s probably got more traffic jams than anywhere else in the world, there’s always so much to explore.” Mr Inkawat launched Greyhound in 1980, since when it has evolved into a fully-fledged restaurant empire, serving a vibrant take on Thai food at branches throughout the Far East, with a London outpost opening its doors last year. And in that time, Bangkok itself has also boomed.
According to Mr Inkawat, now is an exciting time to visit Bangkok thanks to a new wave of cafes, hotels and boutiques that reference the capital city’s past. “The younger generation is looking for authenticity,” he says. “There has been a return to traditional Thai ways of life, especially around the Chao Phraya River, which is becoming a really happening spot.” An expert when it comes to the city’s hidden highlights, Mr Inkawat reveals his recommendations for enjoying Bangkok, day and night.
Where to have brunch
On Lok Yun

Photograph by Mr Chris Schalkx/ricepotato.co
“Situated in Bangkok’s old town, On Lok Yun is an 80-year-old cafe known for its Thai coffee – sweet and creamy and made with condensed milk – and Thai-American breakfasts, with eggs, sausages and smoked ham. The no-frills decor adds to the charm, with wooden cabinets filled with tins of Milo and Ovaltine from the 1980s.”
72 Charoen Krung Rd, Khwaeng Wang Burapha Phirom
What to see
Bangkok Art Biennale

“Diluvium”, 2018, by Mr Lee Bul. Photograph courtesy of Bangkok Art Biennale 2018
“Until 3 February, Bangkok is scattered with art from both local and international artists for the Bangkok Art Biennale. This is perfect for visitors as you not only have a chance to see great artworks from around the world but you also get to enjoy the locations in which they’re found, from old Buddhist temples and galleries to Bangkok’s beautiful parks and gardens.”
Where to have lunch
Nang Loeng Market

Photograph courtesy of bangkokfoodtours.com
“Although Bangkok’s famous Chatuchak weekend market is not to be missed, I’d also recommend Nang Loeng, one of my favourite local markets. You can find a vast range of stalls that have been there for generations, selling noodles, duck with rice, jok (rice porridge) or traditional Thai desserts. People go there for breakfast or lunch and can’t leave without taking home some of their favourite snacks. Look out for chicken holy basil – one of our national dishes – served on rice and topped with a crispy fried egg.”
Nakhon Sawan 6 Alley, Khwaeng Wat Sommanat
Where to shop
ICONSIAM

Photograph courtesy of ICONSIAM
“I wouldn’t normally recommend a shopping mall, but this one is a phenomenon. Set in a stunning spot by the Chao Phraya River on the Thonburi side of Bangkok, it’s beautifully crafted inside and out and was inspired by Thai history and culture. Here, you will find renowned international brands from super luxury designers to streetwear labels, while the Icon Craft store features beautiful handicrafts from different provinces of Thailand, many made using rare traditional techniques.”
Where to have dinner
Baan Ta Nid River Lodge

Photograph courtesy of Baan Ta Nid River Lodge and Art Camp
“Just outside the main city centre, Baan Ta Nid is a small place run by a group of friends who inherited an old wooden house by the river and decided to turn it into a homestay with rooms for visitors. It also has a small restaurant that serves amazing home-cooked food prepared with elusive Thai ingredients using family recipes passed down through generations. Its setting by the river is really relaxing, too.”
40 Moo 2 Krachang Sam Khok Pathum Thani
Where to go for cocktails
Tep Bar

Songkran cocktail. Photograph by Mr Micha Schulte
“Launched by a group of creatives who wanted to open something more authentic than other bars in the city, Tep Bar is hidden away on Nana Road in the old town and serves Thai beers and cocktails using ya dong (Thai rice whisky) as the base. What’s interesting here is that they put on live bands that play traditional Thai folk music in modern arrangements, which is really fun.”
69-71 Soi Nana, Maitri Chid Road