THE JOURNAL
3 MINUTE READ
Five Dress Watches That Show You Can Be Formal Without Being Formulaic
Words by Mr Felix Scholz
5 December 2022
In a time when black tie is more of a suggestion than a rule, it would be fair to assume that classical ideas of formal dress are a thing of the past. That slender, simple and subtle watches don’t have what it takes to compete with the versatility and showy spectacle of sportier models. Except reports of the dress watch’s demise have been greatly exaggerated. Because, just like everything else, it has evolved. Today’s best dress watches aren’t just made from precious metals, and a glossy alligator strap isn’t the default option. Sure, they might only have two hands, but they’ve also got skeletonised calibres, surprising dials and sophisticated case designs. Even if you’re not regularly dressed to the nines, a good dress watch never goes out of style.
01.
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
To be fair, the Cartier Tank is pretty much the ne plus ultra of dress watches, a design that has defined elegant dressiness for over a century. On the surface, this 2022 addition to the stable doesn't rock the Tank Louis Cartier boat too much – the rose-gold case has all the Cartier hallmarks — defining brancards, and the crown is set with a cabochon. So far, so Cartier. But the dial is something else entirely. The electrochemically engraved, galvanised anthracite dial bears a concentric Art Deco-inspired design that shimmers and shifts in the light to stunning effect.
02.
Hermès Timepieces Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune
The watches manufactured by Hermès Timepieces’ Fleurier-based manufacture are one of the watch industry’s best-kept secrets, and this titanium moonphase, the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune proves the point. The movement design and skeletonisation is contemporary chic, with a restrained palette of black and grey showing off the H1953 calibre, with its arcing lines and double moon phase display. The regular Slim d’Hermès is an outstanding dress watch candidate, but this surprising skeleton adds something a little extra. And we mean that in every sense of the word.
03.
Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin
Gerald Charles might not be a household name, but the man who founded the brand in 2000 has quite the pedigree. Mr Gérald Genta was the designer behind some of the most iconic modern watches, including Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and Patek Philippe’s Nautilus. While those two designs are sporty giants, Gerald Charles offers a more refined – though still distinctive – style. The Maestro 2.0 boasts a striking steel case, stepped and polished, with a shape that, while defying conventional geometry, is closest to a rounded-off rectangle. In a world of circles and squares, this standout shape is a welcome change, as is the rubber strap.
04.
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Moon
Aventurine is one of the most magical materials to make into a watch dial, something H. Moser & Cie. knows very well. A technical explanation of aventurine is that it’s a dark glass containing glittering particles of copper and other metals, whereas a more romantic take is that it offers us a glimpse into a distant starscape. In this Endeavour Perpetual Moon limited edition, H. Moser – cleverly – lets the dial shine, surrounding it with a 42mm red-gold case and even amplifying it with a crisp aperture at six that allows the moon to beam through.
05.
Piaget Altiplano Automatic
There’s a little-known bylaw in the watch writing rulebook that states that any list of dress watches must include a Piaget. After all, the Geneva-based makers have long specialised in dressy watches. And while they’re well known for their ultra-slim watches, they’re also ultra-stylish, as you can see from the baguette-set bezel and rich-blue dial. Piaget’s panache (and a decent whack of diamonds) brings this essentially classic design into the current day, where a healthy dose of sparkle is just what the dress watch ordered.
