THE JOURNAL

Onze Wilde Fattoush. Photograph by Mr Ernie Enkler, courtesy of Smith Street Books
The ideal dish for alfresco summer dining.
We like a Michelin-starred tasting menu as much as the next person. But sometimes we want to have a little bit more fun with our food, roll up our sleeves and dive into something a bit more no-nonsense and sustaining, away from starched white table cloths and stiff-backed waiters. And so, it was with some pleasure that we noticed the publication of Souk: Feasting At The Mezze Table this month. “Mezze is not just the Middle Eastern equivalent of tapas; it is also a way of life,” say Ms Nadia Zerouali and Mr Merijn Tol in their introduction. “Throughout our time in the Middle East, it became clear to us that mezze is equal to the generosity and hospitality of the Levantine people. And when we think back, our hearts and minds fill with warmth and desire for the smells of the souk and those lovely hours spent around a mezze table full of sensational food.” Now there’s something we can get on board with. Below is their recipe for some classic, easy-to-create mezze. Yalla!
Wild fattoush with pickled veg, labneh, sumac bread, herbs and pomegranate molasses
This is a more tangy version of fattoush. Instead of tomato and cucumber, our quick-pickled carrot, turnip and radish is delicious. We’ve added labneh balls because cheese is especially tasty in a salad with crispy, garlicky bread. You can, of course, let your imagination run free. The dough is great with lemon zest or dried oregano.
**Serves 2–4 **
Ingredients
500ml apple cider vinegar 3 tbsp salt, plus extra 1 tbsp dill seeds 2–3 tbsp beetroot juice 3 carrots, sliced 3 turnips, sliced 1 bunch radishes, sliced 250g wholemeal spelt flour 1 tsp dried yeast 1 tsp sumac 2 garlic cloves, grated Olive oil 3 baby gem lettuces Fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, dill, mint and oregano, leaves picked Pomegranate molasses
For the labneh

Salt 1kg full-fat goat’s yoghurt Garlic, sliced Nigella seeds Olive oil

method
First, make the labneh balls. Mix a large pinch of salt with the yoghurt – it should be nice and salty. Spoon the yoghurt onto a clean square of muslin or a tea towel and place this in a sieve set over a bowl. Place in the fridge and leave to strain for two days, until you have firm labneh.
Fry the garlic in a little olive oil until golden brown. Set aside to cool.
Wet your hands. Scoop the labneh out of the muslin and roll into balls. Roll the balls in nigella seeds, then place in a clean jar. Add the fried garlic and top up the jar with olive oil. Store in the fridge or pantry until ready to use.
Combine the apple cider vinegar, salt, dill seeds and beetroot juice with 500ml water in a saucepan and bring to the boil.
Put the carrot, turnip and radish in a saucepan or large heatproof bowl and pour the hot pickling liquid over the top. Leave for at least 30 minutes (the vegetables can pickle for as long as you like).
Sift the spelt flour into a large bowl. Mix the yeast with some lukewarm water and leave to stand for 10 minutes until frothy. Mix the yeast mixture with the flour and add (little by little) enough lukewarm water to make a cohesive, smooth dough. Add a sprinkling of salt, the sumac and grated garlic, plus a spoonful of olive oil.
Knead the dough on your work surface for 10-15 minutes until smooth and velvety. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with a clean tea towel and leave in a warm place for 15–30 minutes.
Knead it once more and divide into smaller, evenly sized pieces of dough. On a well-floured work surface, roll them out into thin discs. Cook each flatbread for a few minutes on a hot griddle or in a dry cast-iron frying pan, or even under the grill in a hot oven. It’s quick: a few seconds on one side and then turn over. Let the breads cool and tear into pieces. If you have too many for the salad, just keep the extras and eat them with some hummus or labneh.
Cut the lettuce into strips and mix it with the fresh herbs and pickled vegetables. Crumble the labneh balls over the top and mix in the bread. Drizzle with olive oil and pomegranate molasses and season to taste.

Souk: Feasting At The Mezze Table
