THE JOURNAL
Photograph courtesy of Noma
One could argue that being a chef is all about making other people feel good. Mr Anthony Bourdain once famously said, “anyone who’s a chef, who loves food, ultimately knows that all that matters is: ‘Is it good? Does it give pleasure?’” The very act of cooking a meal for someone – whether in a restaurant, or at home – is a nurturing, nourishing gesture. Which leaves us wondering: where do those people who feed others for a living turn to, when they want to receive, rather than give?
To attempt to answer that question, we’ve asked seven of our favourite restaurateurs where they love eating. From low-key go-tos for home-cooked comfort food to the hotspots they visit for culinary inspiration.
01. Mr Santiago Lastra
Mr Santiago Lastra. Photograph by Ms Maureen Evans. Dish at Noma. Photograph by Ms Ditte Isager
Mexico-born Mr Santiago Lastra threads the culinary traditions of his native land with the freshest British ingredients. Since opening in 2020, his Mayfair hotspot KOL has reached the 17th position in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list; the newly opened Fonda is inspired by more laid-back Mexican eateries and proving to be just as promising.
Noma, Copenhagen
“I feel like I’m in my dream home when I’m there. Even though I only worked there for two years, I really feel like the Noma team is my family for ever. Plus, the techniques, sourcing, service and quality of the cooking and presentation make it one of the most inspiring places to dine as a chef in the world.”
La Palapa, Ocotepec
“This restaurant is in the middle of the highway between my hometown, Cuernavaca, and Tepoztlán. Every time I go to Mexico, I never miss a visit. Reservations are not necessary, and it is not a fine dining restaurant. It is just pure, traditional childhood memories served through food for me. I normally have the huauzontle capeado filled with cheese in tomato sauce and fresh cheese with the lightest tortillas you can imagine.”
What to wear
02. Mr Max Rocha
Photograph by Getty Images
Mr Max Rocha is the chef behind London’s Café Cecilia – and to much anticipation, he has just released the Cafe Cecilia Cookbook. He cut his teeth at other culinary heavyweights in the city: St John Bread and Wine, The River Cafe and Spring.
La Petite Maison, Nice
“It is my absolute favourite restaurant. I’ve been every summer since I was a child, but the most memorable time for me was when I was there to celebrate my 21st birthday with my family and some close friends. Their best dish is the roast chicken and I love to sit inside (even though outside is more popular) by the window. The atmosphere is very busy but controlled and enjoyable at the same time. I love it.”
Quality Chop House, London
“Quality Chop House is another favourite restaurant of mine. When I was 30, I had supper with my closest friends and family and we shared porchetta and confit potatoes, it was so special. The level of hospitality is next to none, so many nice people work there and, in my opinion, it is the best cooking in London. My favourite dish they do is the black pudding with apple.”
03. Mr Dom Fernando
London-based chef Mr Dom Fernando is the brain behind Paradise, the Soho institution giving a new look and feel to Sinhalese food. Reconnecting with his family roots, Fernando is due to open Colombo’s Open Door Policy early next year – an immersive 11-seater, modern Sri Lankan chef’s table experience.
Bandra Born, Mumbai “Fast becoming an institution in Bombay, I was introduced to Gresham Fernandes last year and have eaten at Bandra Born a couple of times while flying through to Colombo. It’s a loud, in-your-face representation of the man himself, hitting high culinary notes course after course. Grab a seat on one of their large tables and don’t miss Grandma Fanny’s prawn curry and the crab curry with brioche – the menu is a playground to get lost in.”
Shree Thaker Bhojanalay, Mumbai “In terms of the best seats, you’re lucky to get one! You’ll start off being seated in the queue outside possibly one of the best vegetarian restaurants I’ve ever been to – founded in 1945, it’s easy to see how they’ve built this reputation. Then, you get ushered inside to a canteen-style space where the team presents you with a thali of the most delicious Gujarati flavours ever. Pots of chutneys, dhals, curries and snacks are best scooped up with roti, puri and bhakri. It’s an electrifying ride, dining with the community and feasting on huge portions fit for a king and queen.”
04. Ms Daniela Soto-Innes
Photograph courtesy of Mi Compa Chava Marisqueria
Formerly of New York’s Cosme and Atla, Mexican-born chef Ms Daniela Soto-Innes is set to open Rubra, which will be her debut restaurant in her home country. In 2019, she was named the world’s best female chef, becoming the youngest woman to take the title.
Emidio Pepe Winery, Torano Nuovo
“I love the restaurant inside Emidio Pepe winery in Abruzzo in Southern Italy. It’s a farm-to-table restaurant with an amazing team, incredible food and delicious wine.”
Asador Etxebarri, Atxondo
“I also love Asador Etxebarri, a restaurant in the Basque town of Atxondo in Vizcaya, Spain. They produce the most delicious grilled ingredients, run by a super small family team.”
Mi Compa Chava Marisqueria, Mexico City
“In my hometown of Mexico City, Mi Compa Chava Marisqueria has super fresh shellfish from Sinaloa, Mexico prepared with different salsas.”
05. Mr Endo Kazutoshi
Mr Endo Endo Kazutoshi. Photograph by Ms Rebecca Dickson. Trivet. Photograph courtesy of Trivet
Third-generation sushi master Mr Endo Kazutoshi has recently re-opened his striking, Michelin-starred Endo at the Rotunda hotspot inspired by the concept of Onkochishin – a way of looking into the future through the wisdom of the past. The omakase experience is informed by recipes and techniques derived from Kazutoshi’s grandfather.
Hajime, Osaka
“I don’t like to use the word incredible, but there is no other word to describe Hajime. Hajime Yoneda was the youngest chef in the world to receive three stars – we are the same age. There is a strong sense of identity in every plate, a blend of science, precision and nature. Every element and every dot have a purpose and story behind it. I remember having the most incredible duck dish – I can never cook duck again because it can never top that experience.”
Trivet, London
“Jonny [Lake, head chef] is someone I would consider as my hero and mentor. We met back in Hong Kong at the Mandarin Oriental and have become friends. Trivet is a very special space; it is a blend of calm and inviting atmosphere. Isa Bal’s wine selections are fantastic, they really complete the picture. I enjoy their pasta and the pastry is always outstanding.”
What to wear
06. Mr Jeremy Chan
Photograph by Mr Danny J Peace
Chard and wild garlic malfatti datterini at The Camberwell Arms
After stints at Hibiscus and Noma, Mr Jeremy Chan founded two Michelin-starred restaurant Ikoyi alongside Mr Iré Hassan-Odukale in 2017. Since then, he’s become known for a layered, all-inclusive approach to food that is both experiential and contemplative.
The Camberwell Arms, London
“The Camberwell Arms, because it’s my local and they do really good home-cooked, comforting pub food with a nice atmosphere.”
Reale, Castel di Sangro
“I really like the intense vegetable-focused menu at Reale. I love the location, a monastery in Abruzzo – cosy but austere. A very cool place to go.”
07. Ms Ravinder Bhogal
Ms Ravinder Bhogal; platter of food at Shree Thaker Bhojanalay
The chef and restaurateur Ms Ravinder Bhogal opened her debut restaurant Jikoni in London in 2016. She is also an award-winning journalist, broadcaster and author, who has released three books.
Shree Thaker Bhojanalay, Mumbai
“I could go fancy here, but I am going to choose the places where I have been the most relaxed and happy. Shree Thaker Bhojanalay is an institution in Mumbai and they serve the best seasonal thalis I have ever eaten. One year, I was there for mango season and almost every dish was made from mango and yet so varied and balanced. They also grind ancient heritage grains on site to make a variety of fantastic Indian breads.”
Trattoria Dardano, Cortona
“No one makes a better tiramisu than the owner Paola Castello, who is also the most generous host. The menu is simple, naturally farm-to-table – look out for their seasonal, regional specials such as pasta con lumachel (pasta with snails).”