Behind The Brand With Oliver Spencer

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Behind The Brand With Oliver Spencer

Words by Benedict Browne | Film by Michael McCool

Two hours ago

There is something reassuringly enduring about Oliver Spencer. Since the launch of the brand in 2002, its eponymous designer has built an international reputation for a distinctly considered and quintessentially British approach to menswear. Spencer carefully balances the informality of the everyday wardrobe with the precision of traditional Savile Row-inspired tailoring (alongside his work at Oliver Spencer, he is also the founder and creative director of occasionwear label Favourbrook).

With its 25th anniversary approaching next year, Oliver Spencer’s ethos and aesthetic remain largely intact. That is testament to Spencer’s clarity and confidence in his philosophy, which is that much like good food, “proper” clothing is the product of “proper” ingredients, brought together carefully, thoughtfully and lovingly – without the influence of trends. It’s a simple formula that has served him well, and one we know all about, having welcomed Oliver Spencer as a brand partner at MR PORTER when we launched 15 years ago.

“Proper clothing is the product of proper ingredients, brought together carefully, thoughtfully and lovingly”

For the latest instalment of Behind the Brand, Spencer met us at his flagship store on Lamb’s Conduit Street in London, arriving on his battle-worn yet dearly loved vintage Vespa to explore the thinking behind his brand. Every bit the local hero, as evidenced by the cheerful greetings from his fellow shopkeepers, community naturally plays a huge role in the inner workings of Oliver Spencer, with its creative and eccentric customers providing a constant source of inspiration.

With the change of season finally upon us, we explore Oliver Spencer’s AW26 collection, now available on MR PORTER. The short film offers an insight into the designer’s approach to fabric development, his commitment to British manufacturing and his belief in the importance of comfort and allowing clothes to grow with you. Rather than treating fashion as something separate from everyday life, Spencer has always approached it through the lens of how people actually dress. His designs occupy the space between utilitarian and formal, a common ground he’s really made his own by combining the structure of tailoring with the ease of more casual wardrobe staples.

The result is menswear that feels polished without being overly formal; considered without appearing contrived – a wardrobe that only gets better and appreciates in value.

Fine balance