How To Start Your Own Wine Cellar

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How To Start Your Own Wine Cellar

Words by Mr Tom M Ford

28 March 2019

For the committed (or would-be) oenophile, it has never been easier to sate an appetite for wine, whether you like classic bordeaux, or more murky, natural varieties. But why go to a restaurant or bar when you can cut out the middle man? Perhaps it’s to save on the mark-up, or to avoid getting dressed for an evening out, but more and more of us seem to be drinking the good stuff in the comfort of our own homes. “A cellar is not just for sticking wine in and forgetting about it. It’s an ongoing project that evolves with you as your tastes change,” says Mr Mark Gurney, who is the wine buyer for his two London restaurants, Salon and Levan, and has a burgeoning wine cellar of his own. “It’s about exploring what a bit of age does to a bottle and what different vintages mean. It’s not a cheap hobby, of course, but you can spend as much or as little as you want.” Below are his tips on what to buy and how to store it.

What to know

“To understand what wine to buy, store and drink you need to do your research. I read magazines such as Noble Rot or Above Sea Level. There are books on wine, too. I recommend Mr Hugh Johnson’s Modern Encyclopedia of Wine.

“Getting to know the people at specialist wine shops is crucial because they can advise you on what to invest in. You should go on a regular basis to taste the wine, too. Once they know your taste profile, they can make suggestions. In London, you have Noble Fine Liquor, which is good for natural or organic wine. In Farringdon, there is Quality Wines. Or the likes of Hedonism Wines in Mayfair, which is quite extravagant. They have a service where they can start a cellar with you. You can also use an online shop, such as Drop. I use iDealwine, which is an auction site for older vintages of wine.

“Once you’re confident enough, you can consult private wine sellers who will sell you more interesting bottles of wine to keep in your cellar for 10 years or more. Build up a relationship with someone in a wine shop and ask for a contact.

“For storage, having a cellar that’s cool, dark and dry is ideal. If not, invest in a wine fridge. The best ones are made by Eurocave and can store up to 40 bottles. You can set the temperature and they have fridges that are split in half to house white and red. The key to storage is maintaining a stable temperature. If it gets too hot, it’ll ruin the wine. (A corked wine will smell like cardboard.) If reds are stored too cold, they will lose their flavour.

“A good general temperature for wine is 13 to 16ºC. However, you can get more technical about it. I store my whites at 10ºC and my reds at 14ºC. But some wines need special treatment. I would store jura reds and gamays at a colder temperature than a bordeaux, for example, which would be best kept at around 16ºC. Keep your bottles horizontal so the corks are wet. If the cork dries out it could crack and ruin the wine. I like to tag bottles with the date I bought them, with any notes and when I should drink it.”

Six wines to invest in now

Sparkling

Bérêche & Fils, Le Cran, Champagne Luges 1er Cru AC 2010

Champagne, France

“The Bérêche family works across 10 hectares of vines in the Montagne de Reims region of Champagne. This wine is 60 per cent chardonnay, 20 per cent pinot noir from the finest vineyards on chalky soils in Ludes. Mr Raphaël Bérêche gets ripeness but retains acidity, which is very important for long ageing. A perfect cellar wine. I’d get 12 bottles and try one each year.”

Price: approx £80-90 per bottle

White 01.

Richard Leroy, Les Noels de Montbenault, VDF 2015 

Loire, France

“After trying to establish a premier cru hierarchy in Anjou to no avail, Mr Leroy decided to make the bold move of declassifying his amazing wines to Vin De France (the lowliest level of wine in France). His chenin blanc are some of the finest in the world. This cuvée is from volcanic soils, on a windy ridge overlooking the river Layon. You’ll find richness with a finessed and distinctly mineral style. This wine can go on for 10-20 years.”

Price: approx £40-50 per bottle

White 02.

Envinate, Palo Blanco, Valle de la Orotava 2016

Tenerife, Spain

“This is perhaps the most unusual wine in this selection. I’ve not tasted old vintages of wines from this island so it’s a bit of a gamble to lay these down. But that’s part of the fun. This is 100 per cent listan blanc grapes, from 600m above sea level from basalt and black sand soils. This produces all the right elements – acidity, zesty citrus fruit, minerality and salinity. I would love to see how this develops over five to 10 years.”

Price: approx £35-40 per bottle

Red 01.

Domaine Sextant, Côte de Nuits 2017

Burgundy, France

“This is new-school burgundy from Mr Julien Altaber, who hangs out in Saint Aubin, but tends vines and buys in grapes from across the region. I fell in love with the wine he makes from grapes bought from Côte de Nuits, which only get better with time. This is pinot noir with brooding esoteric fruit and an enticing earthy swagger. Open one every five years to see how things are progressing.”

Price: approx £40-45 per bottle

Red 02.

Claus Preisinger, ErDELuftGRAsundreBEN, 2016

Burgenland, Austria

“Mr Preisinger’s top blaufrankisch has a rather ridiculous name (it’s a play on the Edelgraben appellation, which he’s not allowed to use as his wines are too “experimental”) but is ridiculously good. Dark and racy black fruits abound here with delicious cherries, olives with earthy undertones. Drink in one year or 10.”

Price: approx £45-55 per bottle

Red 03.

Benedicte & Stéphane Tissot, Amphore 2016

Jura, France

“One of the best winemakers from the Jura; more traditional than some of the wackier producers whom many wine lovers flock to. All Tissot wines are great but the trousseau aged in amphores is perhaps the pinnacle. It’s alive with a purity and intensity that is its hallmark. These need a good couple of years to settle down so open in two to five years to check in. But they can go on for 10 or more, at least.”

Price: approx £50-55 per bottle

Illustration by Ms Clara Lacy