For years, Bottega Veneta was the ultimate under-the-radar fashion label. Understated in its branding and recognisable only by a few house signatures, most notably the trademark intrecciato weave of its much-admired leather goods, it was considered the epitome of quiet luxury and refined style: a subtle nod of appreciation from one member of the fashion cognoscenti to another. That is, until Mr Daniel Lee arrived on the scene.

In the three years since the British designer (who announced his departure from the brand today) was elevated to the position of creative director, Bottega Veneta has established itself as one of the most exciting and forward-thinking fashion brands on the planet. That it has done so without sacrificing its reputation as an arbiter of good taste and a champion of craftsmanship is testament to the designer and to the clothes he has produced, which are bold and vivid while remaining wholly wearable.

And AW21, if you ask us, is where the new Bottega really began to hit its stride. With a palette of bright colours – teal, cherry-red, and a wild shade of Kermit-the-frog green now known in the industry as “Bottega Green” – joining the brand’s trademark black, not to mention an array of desirable pieces that play with texture and proportion in interesting new ways, this is an unmissable collection from a brand at the peak of its powers.

It speaks to Bottega Veneta’s design nous that the words “teal-blue double-breasted overcoat” don’t send us running for the hills. Quite the opposite: the coat shown here is nearly sold out. It’s not just the colour (a shade we’ll see plenty more of later), but the boxy silhouette and wonderfully plush texture that make it a highlight not just of Bottega Veneta’s AW21 collection, but of the wider autumn collections.

In the same shade of teal (the brand calls it “Blaster”) and a similarly fuzzy texture to the showpiece coat above, this sweater is a less daunting option for those who’d rather treat their outfit to a splash, than a full-on dousing, of colour. It’s not just the mood-boosting properties of the teal shade; the super-soft mohair wool gives this piece an added feel-good factor.

A slim-fitting rollneck is one of the most versatile pieces you can introduce into your winter wardrobe. Bottega Veneta’s version uses its proprietary “Technoskin” material, a viscose blend that hugs the body and adds minimal bulk, making it a great base layer under heavier knitwear, coats and even tailoring.

Bottega Veneta is a brand that wears its military influences on its sleeve, or, in the case of this shirt, its shoulders. The epaulettes, a detail borrowed from martial dress, add a ceremonial note to this black virgin wool overshirt, as do the exposed silver collar stays. If that all seems a little too buttoned-up for you, no problem: it looks great worn open over a crisp white T-shirt.

For proof that you don’t need a logo to identify a brand, just look at how Bottega Veneta has put its stamp on this hard-to-miss shade of parakeet green. It’s all over the current collection, brightening up outerwear, shoes and accessories, and, in a move that takes a page from the Tiffany & Co. playbook, even making an appearance on the brand’s packaging. These pleated trackpants, which form part of a matching tracksuit, are one of the subtler ways of wearing what is undeniably the colour of the season.

Bounce by name, bouncy by nature. Bottega Veneta’s take on the Chelsea boot keeps things classic up top, sticking with the time-honoured formula of a patent-leather upper, elasticated gusset and pull tabs at the heel. But the whole thing is mounted on an exaggerated, marshmallow-like sole that takes this iconic shoe into uncharted, albeit welcome, territory.

One of Mr Daniel Lee’s first moves as creative director was to play around with arguably the house’s most recognisable motif, the intrecciato weave. He expanded its proportions and in doing so created a pattern closer to a checkerboard than the original cross-woven leather. It’s best seen on the Cassette, one of the most in-demand bags in women’s fashion – or here, on this smart crossbody bag in a teal-blue shell material.

Even the humble beanie becomes a subtle piece of branding in the skilled hands of Bottega Veneta. Note the knitting pattern, which features another one of the brand’s motifs: the triangle. It’s a reference to the “V” in the word Veneta and once you know to look for it you’ll start spotting it everywhere, from garment labels to the metallic hardware on bags. As for the beanie itself, it’s knitted in Italy from a super-soft, dark-green wool that’s sure to keep you toasty this winter.

Ignore for a moment its current status as one of the world’s most exciting fashion brands. Bottega Veneta also has a long-standing reputation for the quality of its leather goods, which remain a core part of the collection. These gloves, in two-tone black and brown leather and marked with the brand’s signature “V”, are a case in point and not to be overlooked.

While the great majority of Bottega Veneta’s products proudly bear the words “made In Italy”, there are a few notable exceptions – eyewear being one of them. It’s for a good reason, though. These tortoiseshell sunglasses are made in Japan, one of the few places where it’s still possible to find skilled artisans handcrafting acetate frames on an industrial scale.

As we’ve written recently, jewellery is fast becoming one of the major driving forces in men’s style. Bottega Veneta isn’t about to let this one pass it by, and with simple yet impactful pieces such as this gold-tone bracelet – a rope-like double chain link, finished with a minimal clasp – it’s showcasing jewellery design skills to match its expertise with clothing and leather goods.

Buying into Bottega Veneta’s aspirational vision doesn’t have to mean breaking the bank. Like the most successful luxury brands, it understands the importance of mass-market entry points, and, as we’ve discussed, of easily recognisable brand signatures. This iPhone 12 Pro case is the perfect example, bearing both the “Blaster” colour we’ve seen so much of already and the brand’s signature intrecciato weave pattern. It’s instantly Bottega Veneta.