THE JOURNAL

All photographs by Mr Darius Namdar, February 2019
Cuba’s Habanos Festival is where the cigar world gathers every February for cigars and socialising, with a prized humidor auction raising money for the Cuban health services that rounds off the week. Mr Fidel Castro attended several festivals and Sir David Tang took Ms Naomi Campbell a few years ago.
In 2017, I was chosen as the UK representative for the World Habanos Sommelier contest. Held every two years, it is the most prestigious accolade for cigar sommeliers. Sommeliers are tested on their knowledge of the industry, as well as their service skills and I’m pleased to report that I beat a Cuban finalist to take the title back to the UK for the first time in a decade.
This year, I went to the festival as the reigning champion to network and to take part in the festivities (and everything else that Cuba offers). Whether you’re going to smoke cigars, or you just want a holiday, you might find my diary useful.


Day one
Thousands of people descend on Cuba every year, but in February they all tend be here for the cigar festival. I am staying at the Gran Manzana Kempinski hotel, reopened two years ago under the leadership of Mr Xavier Destribats.
Travelling through Miramar, a residential district of Havana, down 5ta Avenida, we drive past the Casa del Habanos, which owned by legendary tobacco producer Mr Alejandro Robaina's son Carlos. This casa is a must visit for anyone travelling on a cigar pilgrimage with a large selection of Habanos within their humidor. There is a small coffee shop in the back and a sampling room filled with American tourists.
Pulling up to the Kempinski, past the gleaming Buicks, Dodges and Cadillacs, I am warmly greeted by the staff. I remember how underdressed I was the previous time I was here, having only packed one suit. I packed properly this time. Seasoned festival goers tend to wear Italian linen, Parisian tailored jackets and British Panama hats.
We head to El Cocinero which is an old smoke stack in Vedado that has been transformed into one of the hottest spots in town for a rooftop drink or dinner. Next door is the Fabrica de Arte exhibition space showcasing a contemporary art gallery. We have dinner with Mr Dag Holmboe the chairman of Pacific Cigar Company.

Day two

I wake up early for some exercise before taking to the streets of Habana Vieja (the old town) with my camera. These streets all tell their own story and are wonderfully contrasting.
I head to El Cafe, my favourite place in town for breakfast and coffee. I discovered this place by mistake a couple of years ago and learnt the Cuban owner Nelson worked for Caprice Holdings years ago.
I visit Mr E Nelson, who used to make Guajaveras (a formal Cuban shirt) for Mr Fidel Castro and he shows me the fabrics in his workshop at 22 Villegas. His walls are adorned with pictures of celebrities he has made shirts for, from Ms Alicia Alonso to Mr Ozzy Osbourne. I opt for a mandarin collar light blue linen with hand sewn detail and a tope coloured Prince of Wales check with the same collar.
It’s time for lunch at Bar Espacios. There is a band who are playing a mixture of contemporary lounge music with a cubanesque trumpet over the top. That evening we head to the Buena Vista Curry Club, which has fantastic food and is of course cigar friendly.

Day three
This morning, I head to the La Corona factory, which is the largest and one of the best factories in Havana. La Corona makes several brands including Hoyo de Monterrey, Trinidad, H Upmann and Por Larranaga.
I have a quick peek into the escaparate (treasury) where thousands of cigars are quietly resting behind their vaulted door before we head off to the despalillo (stripping room) where the bottom of the central vein of the tobacco leaf is removed. Next is the galera where all the torcedors (rollers) are arduously working away to make between 25,000 and 30,000 cigars a day.
After the factory tour, we head to Sergio's Corte del Principe, arguably the best restaurant in town and certainly one of the best Italians I have experienced. We share the beef carpaccio and truffle oil and the grilled prawns simply seasoned with olive oil, salt and pepper.
On the way back to the hotel, I drop in to a couple of favourite cigar shops including Casa del Tabaco La Escogida and Hotel Comodoro.

Day four
On Thursday, I head back to El Cafe for breakfast and a coffee before another walk around town. This time we are taking a tour of Havana's impressive street art from a whole array of international graffiti artists.
We spend a couple of hours with local superstar 2+2=5, whose work is often politicised and cartoonist. Later we bump in to American artist Mr Stephen Palladino, whose mural is made up of local faces from the area.

Day five

Friday marks the final day of the festival culminating in the Gala dinner that evening. The evening is a lavish one with cigars handed out at every possible break. The well-respected Mexican singer and composer Mr Armando Manzanero performs. The orchestra is made up of young professionals and their mentors. There is also a closing performance by Puerto Rican salsa singer, Mr Gilberto Santa Rosa.
Each year, the gala auctions elaborate humidors to raise funds for the Cuban public health system. The total amount raised this year was €1.3m. The most impressive humidor was the Trinidad 50th anniversary humidor made by Massimo de Munari of De’Art. The only non-Cuban artisan on stage, his beautiful cabinet went for €300k.

Day six
I get up early for another stroll downtown before heading off to the Nacional Hotel, an enormous 400 bedroom hotel, which was the battleground during Battistas coup in the 1930s and is featured in the Godfather II. It has a great smoking courtyard and wonderful views over the malecon.
Today, I am heading off to San Luis in the Pinar del Rio, the number one tobacco growing region of the world.
I am with Mr Slawomir Bielicki, master of Havana cigars and runner up of the Habanos World Sommelier contest in 2017. After a long drive, we arrive at our hosts farm in Vuelta Abajo. The vegueros (farmer) teaches us about the cultivation and production of tobacco. The difference between two-day-old tobacco and one-month-old tobacco is starkly contrasted.
We head back to San Luis town and stay the night locally.

Day seven
We get up early to watch the sun rise over the tall plants on the farm and I even take my part in tilling the land. It is the perfect way to round off a brilliant week in Cuba.