A murdered-out version of Cartier’s all-time classic, the Santos, perfect for Taschen-reading, black polo-neck-wearing design nuts, architects and style minimalists.

If ever a watch proved that a strong basic design can have multiple lives, then Cartier’s Santos is it. From the world’s first dedicated wristwatch design in 1904, via the medallion-laden sports-luxe chic of the disco era, to a modern all-rounder that gained added pep with a deft redesign in 2018, the soft square of the Santos has kept evolving while remaining essentially the same. The size, styles and ambience may fluctuate, but the fundamental language of the design – the balance of forms, the Roman numerals that fan out from a square chapter index, the rivets that hold down the bezel – remains faithful to that Belle Epoque classic.

This ultra-sleek, all-black version throws its entire emphasis on the purity and nobility of that original design. There’s something quite architectural about it, all flowing lines, bold structure and textural contrasts, made stealthy and pleasingly austere by its blacked-out styling.

A few years ago, I interviewed Lord Norman Foster, the UK’s most famous architect, at his offices on the South Bank of the Thames in London. He was appropriately clad in – what else? – a black polo-neck sweater and slacks and on his wrist was an all-black Cartier Santos, which he described as “extraordinary”. But that was a version from the previous generation of watches, which were much more heavy-set. I’ve a feeling Lord Foster might appreciate even more the streamlined undulations and brushed, planate surfaces of the current model, not to mention the distinctive – and distinctly comfortable – rolls of the rubber strap, complete with the rivets normally found in the Santos bracelet. If you fancy a more formal look, the watch comes with a black alligator option, which you can swap easily via a QuickSwitch system.

Other details are spot on, too, including a white-on-black date window that’s barely noticeable, but there if you need it, bold luminescence applied to the numerals and hands that emit a rich green glow in low light and a black synthetic spinel topping off the winding crown in place of Cartier’s customary sapphire cabochon.

At 39.8mm wide, the Santos is not a small watch, but the ergonomic design ensures it cleaves snugly to the wrist. The automatic movement is Cartier’s own calibre 1847 MC, made in-house at the company’s watchmaking HQ in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, and carries a 40-hour power reserve.

Cartier Santos de Cartier Automatic

Materials: Stainless steel and rubber

Width: 39.8mm

Height: 9.4mm

Water-resistance: 100m

Power reserve: 40 hours

Price: £6,850