THE JOURNAL
A solid collection of shirts is the cornerstone of any decent wardrobe. Even as menswear has skewed extra-casual over the past decade, the shirt has survived. And not only as the foundation of any formal dress code, but also as a reliable staple that’s easy to wear in any number of contexts across the smart-casual spectrum. Layered under a sweater, over a T-shirt or worn with a suit or jeans, there’s perhaps no item that you’ll get more mileage out of. Of course, they come in all stripes – including striped. Here, the definitive list of the six shirt types that every man should own.
01. The Oxford shirt
A button-up cotton shirt is what you can confidently call an unassailable menswear classic without sounding like you spend all your time on the r/malefashionadvice subreddit (hey, no judgement here). Which is why it’s at the top of this list.
Refined yet low-key, it’s become something of a sartorial mainstay that you can layer under a blazer to a meeting, or style it untucked with chinos or denim on the weekend. White and sky blue are the easiest go-tos in terms of colour and will realistically yield the most wear. And while they come in all kinds of cotton weaves, an Oxford cloth button-down – known as the OCBD among menswear nerds, ahem – is arguably the most classic and versatile.
For a touch of pattern, look to vertically striped styles, which make you look that tiny bit taller. Narrow pinstripes are great for a refined office-appropriate look, while bold, wider stripes (sometimes known as butcher’s stripes because they recall the stripes on a butcher’s apron) add more flair to a get-up.
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02. The denim shirt
A denim shirt can be a real wardrobe workhorse – and not just for those who wish to look like a cowboy (although that is an option). With its undeniably rugged charm, it’s versatile enough to be worn under a winter sweater when it’s colder (the textures look great together), but will work just as well on its own.
Don’t discount double denim. The trick is either exactly matching or contrasting shades – anything in between will be a case of close but no cigar. Read our guide to doing double denim right here.
For a full western look, think about your accessories. A denim shirt looks great when paired with a bandana tied around your neck. Yeehaw.
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03. The cotton-poplin shirt
Poplin is a plain-weave fabric, noted for its versatility, durability and crisp feel. It’s also breathable, coming into its own in spring and summer. And while it features fine horizontal ribs, what sets it apart is its smooth slight sheen. In short, it’s the perfect material for an everyday shirt.
Indeed, a white cotton-poplin shirt could easily be worn to most workplaces or off duty at the weekend. Other light shades can add a point of interest under a blazer, while darker colours more drama still. And given the weave, this material lends itself to stripes and micro checks.
One thing to note is that finer patterns of poplin can shimmer on camera – known as the Moiré effect – which is something to consider if you spend time on screen. However, the adaptability of this material also means it comes in many guises, so there’s likely a shirt for you out there somewhere.
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04. The flannel shirt
If, however, you want to add a bit of heft to your wardrobe, flannel is your guy. Despite its broad-ranging associations – from lumberjacks to 1990s grunge to 2010s hipsters – the hard-wearing flannel shirt is singular in its ability to add a rugged cool to your off-duty looks. In fact, it can be one of the most reliable pieces in your wardrobe. Polo Ralph Lauren is particularly good at making them, blending that vintage American-workwear vibe with some contemporary polish.
As for styling, they often look best when worn unbuttoned over a casual tee as an overshirt, with equally rugged trousers, such as blue denim jeans or cargo pants. On cooler days, they’ll look great under a shearling jacket, too.
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05. The linen shirt
For those about to embark on sunny adventures, linen should be a major player in your suitcase. The relaxed and versatile linen shirt pairs effortlessly with tailored shorts, linen trousers or swim trunks – it’s difficult to go wrong. Even if you’re not going anywhere, with spring around the corner, now is the time to invest in the long-sleeved version, which will look and feel great under a blouson jacket.
Linen has rightfully earnt a reputation for its breeziness. However, it is also stronger than cotton and dries quicker, too. What’s more, the flax plant that this fibre is derived from requires less water and fewer pesticides to grow, which is why you will find this sustainable material heavily featured in our Consciously Crafted collections.
Comfortable, breathable and still elegant after being crumpled in your hand luggage, it will look the part whether you’re on a Mediterranean terrace or just in the office. And while the Italians make some of the best ones (of course they do), Mr P.’s new collection is also worth a browse.
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06. The silk shirt
First cultivated in China some 7,000 years ago, silk has long been prized for its properties. It is incredibly strong yet feels delicate to the touch. It has a louche, carefree drape and more swagger than Mick Jagger, but works hard when it comes to regulating body temperature. And given that dyes really take to it, you will encounter it in a vast array of patterns and colours.
Naturally, you’ll find standout silk shirts in the collections of brands such as The Row, TOM FORD and ZEGNA. Look also to Casablanca, where this luxury material’s dye-retention abilities are put to the test with a series of vivid prints. Or see Kartik Research’s block-printed – and Consciously Crafted – pieces.
When blended, silk can add an elevated feel and a softer handle to a cotton or polo shirt.