Try the Brasserie Réjane, which dispenses “traditional French dishes with a modern twist”. The steak tartare is a particular favourite of ours and no worse for its largely undetectable modernity.
The Nolinski was designed, by Mr Jean-Louis Denoit, as if it were the house of a wealthy traveller, Mr Nolinski – grand, comfortable and never dull. It succeeds on all those scores. For the visitor keen to visit the Palais Garnier opera house or Galeries Lafayette, it is enviably placed in the centre of the 1st arrondissement. It’s well-appointed, too, with the swishest pool we have ever come across in Paris, 16m long and cocooned and enhanced by a mirrored ceiling and low lights (to say nothing of the equally attractive sauna and hammam). The rooms are equipped with smartphones with unlimited internet access and free international calls and a range of French and English books on fashion and design, which, it is hoped, will whet guests’ appetites and encourage them to visit the in-house exhibition space. After which, it would almost be impolite not to adjourn to the